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Temp drifting on marine air system
January 9, 2012
11:55 am
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Steve Pooler
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Feeling the air at the grill will tell you nothing except that the unit is cycling on & off...

What I was trying to get across is you need to get down to the unit itself...Open up whatever hatch or lift whatever cushion is needed to do so...Then with the unit running...Feel around for either hot or cold air (depending on if you are running in heat or cool) leaking into the space around the unit...

Yes your description reinforces my thought somewhat...

To be honest...I don't know if it would be an improvement or not (the control)

That's more of a thing of what floats your boat  Laugh

I myself like the auto fan speed you have now because it makes the unit quieter without having to get up to slow that motor down...But that may not be as important to you as the remote, or your fan in your installation my not be noisy when on high speed.

Steve~

January 9, 2012
11:41 am
tnsailorguy
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So other than than the remote it would not really be an improvement?  I assumed it would not fix the problem.  But looked like it may have some options and system monitors that would be helpful. 

As to the problem, this is just more info in helping to diagnose the problem.  I sat with my hand in front of the single vent.  I would feel the air warm as the unit kicked on I would hold my hand up there and could feel it begin to cool after the unit kicked off, as soon as the air turned cool it would kick back on.  I was watching the thermo at the time and noticed that only one degree fluctuation.  I timed the cycle time at 90 seconds on 4 minutes off.  I hope I did not hurt anything by running it like that.  Perhaps this information will reinforce your earlier diagnostic.

January 9, 2012
10:30 am
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Steve Pooler
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It would work...Won't solve your problem if you are leaking air like I think is possible, and it will not completely cover your hole...You'd have to make an adapter plate...

You should also know that it's setup to operate blower motors with more than one speed winding..Like 2 or 3 speeds...

Your unit is Variable speed with only one winding...So with that control you would only have High speed unless you go to Home Depot & get a light dimmer & install it in-line with the fan wire...Then you would have variable speed, but only manually adjustable as opposed to the auto speed control you now have...

 

Steve~

January 9, 2012
10:19 am
tnsailorguy
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Noticed this

 
MarinAire Universal Retrofit Control Kit 110- 120 V / 60Hz

 

on the Marketplace site.  Is this something that would be an upgrade for my system?  Would the desplay fit where my current display is located? ( In the upper left hand corner of my electrical control panel on my 92 Sundnacer)  Noticed it was $175 which does not seem like such a bad price.  And I love the idea of being able to adjust the temp from the V Birth.

January 9, 2012
10:00 am
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Steve Pooler
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The Pressure Switches themselves will not be the issue...Hot air cycling back to the unit can make the pressure switch cycle the unit as you described...The pressure switch is a protection switch...It senses high pressure & shuts the unit off to avoid damage...Then when the refrigerant pressure reduces in the system it will allow power to again run the compressor.

Look for hot air cycling back to the unit such as a leaking duct...This can cause both issues I mention...

 

Steve~ 

January 9, 2012
9:44 am
tnsailorguy
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I saw the two flat cat five lines comming from the side of the box.  I assume one goes to the ECU and the other to the return.  I will check that first.  In the interim I will see what i can learn of pressure switches.

January 8, 2012
7:15 pm
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Steve Pooler
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tnsailorguy said:

As to the high pressure switch where would one locate that? One thing I noticed was that there were two fittings near the compressor, one with blue cap and one with red cap. The red cap seemed to have a small brass protrusion stickin out the top.

At this point...The pressure switch is not easy to explain....Lots of info here on the forum about pressure switches...

The Red & Blue things are where a service guy/gal connects gauges...

 

Steve~

January 8, 2012
7:08 pm
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Steve Pooler
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Sorry....Your sensor will be plugged into the unit's elec box (on the unit) and should be a flat type telephone cable that ends up at your return air grill (or just behind)...It will be a little silver thing about the size of a pencil...Not as long, but around 1-2 inches...

Just follow the flat grey wire from the elec box to where it goes....

 

Steve~

January 8, 2012
3:39 pm
tnsailorguy
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As to the high pressure switch where would one locate that? One thing I noticed was that there were two fittings near the compressor, one with blue cap and one with red cap. The red cap seemed to have a small brass protrusion stickin out the top.

January 8, 2012
3:35 pm
tnsailorguy
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Thanks. That gives me some things to check. What would the sensor look like? Would it be in the area where the unit is located? I will have to look at the PDF on my work computer. I really apricate your input on this matter. I will be back at the boat next weekend.

January 7, 2012
5:52 pm
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Steve Pooler
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Ok...That all helps...Thanks Cool

Since that is a ECU control that does not have a temp sensor in the display (like later Passports)

I would locate the temp sensor end & make sure you have not developed a duct leak that is allowing discharge air to blow or leak onto the sensor....This will cause it to short cycle because with the unit running warms the air & it will see that...Then when it shuts it off it sees the air cool quickly & thinks it needs to turn back on...

Another reason to short cycle is the high pressure switch cutting it off & back on...This can happen for the same reason...Hot air leaking out of the discharge duct back into the return air, thus causing the unit to run high pressure...

 

Steve~

January 7, 2012
5:10 pm
tnsailorguy
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About five degrees above what digital thermo says on table. Short cycles outside temp 55 degrees.

January 7, 2012
5:08 pm
tnsailorguy
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Changer to correct fuse. It has stopped readout movin up and down. Seems be cycling a lot. Small penguin facing away from logo. Says environmental control unit at top of control. Water temp 49 degrees

January 7, 2012
2:54 pm
tnsailorguy
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It is the ECU Display 1992

January 7, 2012
1:24 pm
tnsailorguy
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Thanks I will get info from boat and accurate water temp.

January 7, 2012
12:36 pm
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Steve Pooler
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Ok if you are sure it's Marine Airrr & not Cruisair that helps a bit...But those numbers I don't recognize... 

A model number off the unit itself would help but also take a look at this PDF /marine-ac-control-identification-marine-air-direct-expansion-units/

Scroll thru the pages & find the control & matching board that most looks like what you have...Open the electrical box on the for the unit to see the board...And look for the Penguin on the control...Small Penguin, Big Penguin, Facing Left, Facing Right, or No Penguin at all...

Also know that you cannot run Reverse Cycle heat in water temps 40 degrees or below...Though it may heat a bit you are running a huge risk of rupturing the water coil (with it icing up) & ruining the complete unit...

Sorry that you may have to go to the boat first...

 

Steve~!

January 7, 2012
12:03 pm
tnsailorguy
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I wrote down some numbers from the bottom of the info panel 204 3001 followed by what looked like a zero that had been filled in and a zero with a line in it then in the next box a 2-13315. It is a Marine Air Systems unit. There was water flow about the same as usual shooting maybe three inches from thru hull. I would have to estimate the water temp at around 45 degrees. If you will let me know what and where to look for the specific info you would need let me know and I can get it when I go back to boat this afternoon.

January 7, 2012
11:43 am
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Steve Pooler
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Before I could help in any way...I need to know exactly what you have for equipment & control...

There can be many differences from brand to brand & even models & models/brands of controls.

I also need to know the temp of the water the boat is sitting in & if you have "Full" flow overboard.

 

Sorry...But with all the variables...I'd just be guessing without that info...  Wink

 

Steve~

January 7, 2012
11:21 am
tnsailorguy
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I have 1992 Sea Ray Sundancer on the Tennessee River. It is a marine air system self contained I think. Unit is located under setee. Last nite I woke up cold and noticed that the temp read 58degrees on my digital control and the unit was blowing cool air. I attempted to adjust thmostat to no avail. Checked connections all seemed ok. The compressed would cut on but no warm air from output. I replaced the short fuse, I think it said it was for reverse cycle. I had let it set 15 minutes while I went to ship store to get fuse. They only had a 4 amp instead of the 5 so I tried it anyway since it was lower I figured . I then turned on the unit and it began to emit warm air. After a few minutes the compressor was warm to the touch but not hot as it had been before. Watched it for a bit and I noticed it would cycle but the readout on the control unit seemed to drift up and down. From lower 60 to upper 70. The temp outside was 48. I shut unit down and came home to find info. I am returning later today. Any imput or things to check would be helpful.