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Marine Air/ Passport 'HHH' error
September 18, 2012
11:16 am
kcarp5666
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We have a 2003 Silverton 39 motoryacht with 3 marine air a/c units that all feed off the same sea strainer.  The salon unit is flashing HHH but the aft and v berth units are still running with no error codes.  Why would the salon unit flash HHH and the other not?

September 12, 2010
7:46 am
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Steve Pooler
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Hi Rick...No Magic Wand Here...But I guess you need to put some gauges on it to see what pressures you do have while it's running...

You probably did let out too much freon, and compressors will run hot when low on freon...It's the refrigerant that cools the compressor...The water removes the heat from the refrigerant.

Steve~

September 11, 2010
8:53 pm
Capt Rick
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Hi back agsin Steve and thanks also to whywait,
The T worked fine but now the real fun starts. I also change the heat O/L with one rated for 1hp. I have always used a heatsinked paste on reefer compressors but since nothing was on the one I broke it didn't occur to me to get some when I bought the T's and HP switch/.
My compresssor is burning up. Not egg frying more like well done steak. And the air flow is about room temp.
The only thing I did was blow out a little gas from the high side. this seemed to cause air out temp change about 12 degrees higher. The hot compressor being why I let some out. Possibly the wrong thing to do from reading some other entry's. Perhaps the god's do not want me to have A/C above an outside 80f limit.
It sounds (Compressor) fine but is burning up. What what could cause that. /Is it on it's way out? Air in the system Undercharged? Please wave your magic wand of wisdom so I can get some cold.
Thanks for your support.
Rick

September 10, 2010
11:02 pm
Capt Rick
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OHHH. OK.... Duh.... I get it now! I am guessing the FMM "T" screwed on to the HP port is a standard A/C Item as well as the screw on HP switch. I will try to find them tomorrow.
If they are a specialty item (or not)and you have a supplier in the Miami Ft Laud area open on Sat please let me know.

Happy days!! I have been delivered a no muss no fuss solution and am getting aquainted with the unit. Hopefully the switch is the cause and not just a symptom
Thanks much Steve,
Rick

September 10, 2010
4:45 pm
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Steve Pooler
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whywait said:

To all…
I had a local Cruisair dealer come to my boat and fix my A/C. I believe he said the High pressure switch was stuck open. Instead of taking out the old, which he said can be laborsom, he just by-passed it with another part that he had. Sorry this is pretty vague, but I can't remember all the pieces he was taking about…and it was 2 months ago.
Regardless, he fixed it and it has worked great since.


Yep…Thanks for the re-inforcement, and as I described starting in post 4 of this thread…That's what you can do…

Sorry All…If I didn't make it clear enough…

The answer is a new switch, but to leave the old one intact, and moving it's wires to the new switch…Just screw a new (screw on style) switch onto the high side service port…The tee would be so that you could still connect a gauge hose without removing the new switch to do so…The extra port of the tee would normally have a screw on cap just as the gauge port does now.

Steve~

September 10, 2010
10:50 am
whywait
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To all...
I had a local Cruisair dealer come to my boat and fix my A/C. I believe he said the High pressure switch was stuck open. Instead of taking out the old, which he said can be laborsom, he just by-passed it with another part that he had. Sorry this is pretty vague, but I can't remember all the pieces he was taking about...and it was 2 months ago.
Regardless, he fixed it and it has worked great since.

September 10, 2010
7:09 am
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Steve Pooler
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Capt Rick said:

Found the problem. At first it seemed to be a bad butt splice connection to the High Pressure switch. But then turned out to be an open switch. I can't tell if the transducer can be removed without opening the system…As I said earlier it should be soldered in…and cannot find any reset button like my old cruise Air had. Progress I guess.
Rick


Again…Just so that others reading won't be looking all over for a reset button/switch…The only marine air manufacturer I know of that installed a manual reset switch with a button was/is Mermaid.

Cruisair/Marine Air never installed one at the factory, and never even had one in the parts book…If your old Cruisair unit had one Rick…It was likely installed later which I have seen done…And have even installed a few for customers with manual controls that want to leave the a/c running unattended…It can save melting a pump head from lack of water, and also save a compressor…For those interested, the below link is to a post that might further explain…

** you don't have permission to see this link **

Steve~

PS: Thanks for the link to the Vector Compact/Passport II manual...I did not have that one & I'm sure others here can use it too.

September 10, 2010
6:58 am
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Steve Pooler
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Capt Rick said:

Hi Steve,
I just saw your reply post and you hit the switch on the head. It only happened once before according to my understanding of the program perameters for HP on passport II. Setting U6 was set at #3 which states it requires a manual reset of the unit. #1 and #2 reset every 90 Seconds after the HHH display...Just for everyone's info...I would stay with the #3 setting, and by manual reset they mean that after 3 attempts to restart/run the system, It shuts down & you must then reset the control by cycling the power...not a button  on the switch...This is best if running unattended. 
Thanks for the info on the switch. I was tempted to run it over night but in my checks I also broke the tab on the comp overheat switch and figure I had to many safety's removed. I'll let it rest and do an pressure check tomorrow and run some muriatic acid through the coils unless you can recommend something safer.

If I need to open it up I think I'll switch to r22a Evir0safe. I put it in a 5k unit I have and it never worked so well before with r22. It also has a low operating pressure....Stick with the R22...Regardless of claims, Replacement refrigerants are blends, and never better than what the system was designed for...Lower operating pressure on the low side can cause you icing problems & R-22 will likely be available for at least the life of that unit.
What do you think about putting a "T" connection with a pressure gauge at the HP switch tube?...It's an ok idea, but a switch is more important since you don't watch a gauge all the time, and if you get too much weight on that connection, the tubing will tend to fracture (copper "work hardens") from the compressor vibrations while running...Then you loose all freon.

Thanks for the help and great advice. You were right on the mark and the additional info eased my furrowed brow...Glad to help !
Rick


Steve~

September 9, 2010
10:36 pm
Capt Rick
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Steve,
Here is a link for the Manual for the Marine Air Vector self contained unit that includes some passport programing instructions. It's not PDF but it works for me.
After rereading your reply I see you already mentioned putting in a guage which I will do.
Thanks, Rick

** you don't have permission to see this link **

September 9, 2010
10:14 pm
Capt Rick
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Hi Steve,
I just saw your reply post and you hit the switch on the head. It only happened once before according to my understanding of the program perameters for HP on passport II. Setting U6 was set at #3 which states it requires a manual reset of the unit. #1 and #2 reset every 90 Seconds after the HHH display.
Thanks for the info on the switch. I was tempted to run it over night but in my checks I also broke the tab on the comp overheat switch and figure I had to many safety's removed. I'll let it rest and do an pressure check tomorrow and run some muriatic acid through the coils unless you can recommend something safer.

If I need to open it up I think I'll switch to r22a Evir0safe. I put it in a 5k unit I have and it never worked so well before with r22. It also has a low operating pressure.
What do you think about putting a "T" connection with a pressure guage at the HP switch tube?

Thanks for the help and great advice. You were right on the mark and the additional info eased my furrowed brow
Rick

September 9, 2010
9:33 pm
Capt Rick
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Found the problem. At first it seemed to be a bad butt splice connection to the High Pressure switch. But then turned out to be an open switch. I can't tell if the transducer can be removed without opening the system and cannot find any reset button like my old cruise Air had. Progress I guess.
Rick

September 9, 2010
10:08 am
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Steve Pooler
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Hi Rick...Thanks for posting~

First off guys...There is NO manual reset on Marine Air equipment...Mermaid has one on the High Pressure switch (and that may be what you guys have heard about) but they are the only manufacturer I have run across that does...

All other marine a/c units I have serviced or know of have a Automatic Reset high pressure switch....

The positives to an auto reset hi/ps switch are you don't have to access the unit to reset/press it...But most systems now have digital control to do the shutdown and fault display for you...Manual resets are good for manual control units that are left running unattended...If you come back and nothing but the fan is running then you know the reset is the first thing to check...With digital control, that is not necessary because it will tell you what went wrong by flashing a fault...Either way HHH flashing, or tripped reset...Water flow must still be checked & fixed before running again.

Two things normally cause High Pressure and are thoroughly covered all over this site & forum...Low water flow & Scaled up Condensers acting as a insulating blanket preventing proper heat transfer...If you have full water flow...Your unit may need flushing with acid to remove that scale restoring it's heat transfer to the water.

The high pressure switch is there to protect the unit (and you) from high side operating pressures of over 425 psi (R-22 units) Normal operating high side pressure on a clean unit, with rated water flow thru it, should not exceed 200-275 psi depending on water temp entering...So you see...There is quite a bit of room to allow for diminished flow, or a dirty condenser before the switch shuts it down.

What can happen with a auto reset switch is (and this is likely your case Rick) The switch has cycled so many times that it has worn itself out and will no longer reset...The digital control sees the "open" switch, and even though you cleared the fault...As soon as it is powered up to run mode again it thinks the compressor should not run because the switch will not reset...

The only fix is to replace the switch...Unfortunately with Marine Air of your vintage it's a soldered in switch...A screw on switch can be installed (leaving the old soldered in switch, but just just moving it's wires to the new) on the high side gauge port with a flare tee (so that you still have a gauge port) and you can test your existing switch by cutting it's wires & twisting them together (going back to the control) But only do this as a test DO NOT RUN MORE THAN A FEW SECONDS to confirm the compressor will run with no fault display....We know you had a fault causing this in the first place...Running a unit without high pressure protection is dangerous to you, and will also kill the unit...

As far as a manual for fault codes...I just looked, and all that Marine Air is offering is the manual for the AH Passport II which is for Chilled Water A/C and won't have your settings or fault codes...

You might try contacting Micro Air ** you don't have permission to see this link ** built the control/s and see what they have to offer... Be sure your control is the Passport II (which has no penguin on it's face)

Steve~ 

September 9, 2010
7:53 am
Capt Rick
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Hi Steve,
Thank You for your forum.
I also have an HHHH code on my passport display for a Marine Air vector compact 16k and now can not get a start up. Please advise me of possible problems as I can not locate this (or any) passport II error code discriptions anywhere.( any links would be greatly appreciated)

When it first occured around 8 days ago I restarted and the error continued on the display , The pump and compressor ran but the compressor shut down after a minute and the HHHH display appear though the cooling pump still ran. I cleaned the strainer and blew out the intake hose ( the vessel is on a brackish water canal and I get alot of water scum blockage).
This cleared the H's and the it ran for 4 days until it stopped with the H code again. I checked the strainer which was fairly clean and intake after flow as good but the symptoms had changed,

Now the display lights up as usual for a few seconds the relays on the A/C unit click on then immeadiately off and the display changes to H's. The cooling pump never has time to start before it shuts down.
I disconnected the water pump and ran it with a different power source and it's good as is the water flow.
I hear there is a reset switch for the compressor somewhere but I have not located it as of yet.
Any assitenced which this would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick Sargent

July 12, 2010
6:37 am
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Steve Pooler
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First I have to ask if the pump is actually pumping water thru the unit & overboard ???

How much water is it pumping overboard.... Full stream, or just a trickle ???

If not full stream then you still have a flow problem...Try blowing out the intake thru-hull & flush some water with the garden hose thru the system...You may have a sand blockage down the line somewhere...

There is no manual reset per say...There is a factory programming reset but this does not seem to be needed at this point, and if you do it, you will loose any programming changes that the installer of the system may have calibrated for your installation...Factory presets are just that and are by no means are intended to be whats best for your system installation...They are just an original baseline programming set...

Steve~

July 11, 2010
10:58 am
whywait
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I have a 1999 Regal. I believe I have the Vector Compact a/c unit with the pass port control panel. This last weekend I sucked up a bunch of sand and I got the 'HHH' error on my screen. This has happened to me before at the same beach, so I wasn't worried. I cleaned the Strainer, and checked the water pump to make sure no pebbles made their way through (happened previously)and also turn the strainer on with the pump apart to make sure water was flowing through it. After doing this, I thought I had it licked. However, when I turned it back on I could hear it fire up for 5-10 seconds(?) then 'click', it all turns off and the 'HHH' error is back. I returned to our marina and thinking something may have changed on the trip back, but nothing.
I'm looking for any thoughts on this. One person told me there should be a manual 'reset' by pushing certain buttons on the passport panel, any truth to this? I cant find anything pertaining to it.
Thanks for any advice.