Please consider registering
guest

sp_LogInOut Log In sp_Registration Register

Register | Lost password?
Advanced Search

— Forum Scope —




— Match —





— Forum Options —





Minimum search word length is 3 characters - maximum search word length is 84 characters

sp_Feed Topic RSS sp_TopicIcon
Cruisair Split System (One fan not working)
November 18, 2011
9:34 am
Avatar
Steve Pooler
Admin
Forum Posts: 1127
Member Since:
November 12, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Thanks for the report back David & glad we were able to help...  Smile

Did you calibrate high speed as I described too ?

 

Steve~

November 17, 2011
8:25 pm
davidwigler
Knoxville, TN
Member
Members
Forum Posts: 17
Member Since:
September 6, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Steve, thanks so much for your help.  You were correct as usual.  Raising the slow fan speed stopped the problem.

1977 Hatteras 58' Motoryacht, galley up model with 4 staterooms

5 reverse cycle Cruisair compressors in the starboard engine room with SMXII controllers.  One self contained unit for the enclosed aft deck.  Total 87K btu

November 11, 2011
6:57 am
Avatar
Steve Pooler
Admin
Forum Posts: 1127
Member Since:
November 12, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hi David~

Your issue is likely the LOW fan setting in the SMX II programming is set too low...

 

The High fan setting should be calibrated to where the motor Just Starts to slow (or hum a bit) then raise it up 3 reference numbers above that point....This will assure you are getting max voltage on high....Yet also insure that when you drop speeds that you get a 20% drop with each light...If you set to maximum you may drop 2 or 3 lights before you notice a speed change...

 

Steve~

November 11, 2011
6:48 am
davidwigler
Knoxville, TN
Member
Members
Forum Posts: 17
Member Since:
September 6, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

I'm really sorry I didn't see this post earlier.  I had the exact same problem.  One of the fans on a 24K split unit was intermittent. Once it starts it runs fine, and it's 34 years old!

I raised the HI fan speed to its maximum setting on the SMX-II and the problem is solved for now.  The fan wasn't getting enough voltage to start. 

1977 Hatteras 58' Motoryacht, galley up model with 4 staterooms

5 reverse cycle Cruisair compressors in the starboard engine room with SMXII controllers.  One self contained unit for the enclosed aft deck.  Total 87K btu

November 3, 2011
11:02 am
Avatar
Steve Pooler
Admin
Forum Posts: 1127
Member Since:
November 12, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hi Bob~

Glad you got thru it...It's really is not that bad once you do the first one...  Cool

You can find the charging info in this PDF manual: ** you don't have permission to see this link **

 

Charging info starts on page 14...Curve chart for R-22 on page 38...

Let me know if you have any questions or issues...

 

Steve~ 

November 3, 2011
10:29 am
CaptainYAH
Waretown, NJ Hot summers
Member
Members
Forum Posts: 14
Member Since:
September 13, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hi Steve,

 

We installed the fan motor into the unit yesterday and will put the unit back in the boat today. The system is a Cruisair 24K BTU (split system) with 2 ESS12 cooling units with a SMX II control in a 46' 2007 Ocean. Do you have the charging chart for this unit or do you know where I can get it?

With your help, this has been a much easier project than expected. Thanks!

 

Regards,

 

Bob

October 17, 2011
12:24 pm
Avatar
Steve Pooler
Admin
Forum Posts: 1127
Member Since:
November 12, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

New motor shipped today  Cool

 

Let us know how it goes when you get back from Mexico Bob...Hope the fishin's Great !!!

 

Steve~

October 14, 2011
1:09 pm
CaptainYAH
Waretown, NJ Hot summers
Member
Members
Forum Posts: 14
Member Since:
September 13, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Steve,

 

How do I place an order with you?

 

Bob

October 12, 2011
11:11 am
Avatar
Steve Pooler
Admin
Forum Posts: 1127
Member Since:
November 12, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

There are only two motor possibilities Bob...115 or 230 volt...Otherwise it's the same motor since back in the 60's (or at least early 70's)

 

They don't offer us the insulation as a part #...I'd have to order it and no telling how long that would take or if I could even get it...They are closing up/sold the old Richmond Va Cruisair plant (Home for over 50 years) this week in favor of the larger plant in Pompano Beach Fl...I don't think anyone that is left up there knows much about where anything is...They just know they have to get it out...That air handler was always built in Richmond so they would have the patterns...

I'm afraid your on your own on the insulation...But you might take a sample to a local Refrigeration A/C supply house, to see if they have something similar...They should at least have what is called Foam insulation tape...Think the rolls come 25' by 2.5 to 3" wide with a paper backing to peel off as you stick it down...

 

Steve~

October 12, 2011
10:26 am
CaptainYAH
Waretown, NJ Hot summers
Member
Members
Forum Posts: 14
Member Since:
September 13, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hi Steve,

 

I'm getting there. As soon as I get the fan motor out I'll get back to you and order it unless there's no chance of ordering the wrong motor before that.

 

Do you carry the black self sticking siding for the top of the box and the heavy duty black tape that's on the unit now? I'll need to replace that, too. Are there any other parts that I'll need to order from you to do the job?

 

Thanks!

 

Bob

October 11, 2011
8:09 am
Avatar
Steve Pooler
Admin
Forum Posts: 1127
Member Since:
November 12, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Sorry Bob....No diagrams exist that I can think of, or can remember seeing myself...

About the best I can do is what I posted in post 2 above as a description of how to do the job...

If something in that post is not clear...Let me know what it is & I'll try to elaborate or define it...

 

Steve~

October 10, 2011
10:33 pm
CaptainYAH
Waretown, NJ Hot summers
Member
Members
Forum Posts: 14
Member Since:
September 13, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hi Steve,

 

I'm back again with the same problem and I sure it wasn't a loose wire. I think it's the fan motor. I was able to reach into the output side of the fan and it doesn't turn freely like the other fan. Do you have any diagrams of the unit to look at before I start taking things apart?

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

September 14, 2011
8:25 am
Avatar
Steve Pooler
Admin
Forum Posts: 1127
Member Since:
November 12, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

That is Great new Bob !!!...And thanks for the report back  Wink  Being in the 1% can be a good thing...

 

Do you have the tools to re-make that connection ?

 

If you don't redo it...It will happen again, and if unattended, or you don't notice it (which is not hard to overlook) It will be flooding back liquid to the compressor when it does happen...

Could be part of the reason you lost the first compressor...

 

Steve~

September 14, 2011
8:07 am
CaptainYAH
Waretown, NJ Hot summers
Member
Members
Forum Posts: 14
Member Since:
September 13, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hi Steve,

 

Well, I lucked out, I'm in the 1% group, at least for now. My son and I checked the junction box where the two air handlers are wired together and everything looked OK, but one crimp seemed suspicious. After moving the crimp around I noticed some movement, but I can't believe that was it. We also accessed the top of the fan on the output side to make sure the fan rotated. Turned the unit on and it worked!

 

Looks like I'll have to keep a close eye on this, because I can't believe it was a loose connection. I guess time will tell.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

Bob

September 13, 2011
12:44 pm
Avatar
Steve Pooler
Admin
Forum Posts: 1127
Member Since:
November 12, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

CaptainYAH said:

Hi Steve,

 

Is there a way to take this apart without pumping down the refrigerant?...Sorry, But No Bob...You have to completely remove that air handler from the boat, to take it apart to get to the motor...I may have to cut an access in the bridge and replace it with an access door one way or the other.

 

Also, is there a way to confirm the fan is definateloy the problem before I try to take this apart?...The only other thing you can check is in the junction box where both fan motor wires connect on the bridge (just follow the wire from one till you find a box) for a bad connection...Like I said in my last post...The fact that one motor runs means there is voltage going up there....We're supposed to get cold weather this weekend on the east coast so I might try it then...Again...Please do not run that system with only one fan motor running...You will take out that new compressor doing so for any length of time...

I'd say there's a 99% chance it's a bad motor...1% chance it's a bad connection, but you have to get into that junction/box to disconnect that motor for removal anyway.

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

 

Steve~

September 13, 2011
12:13 pm
CaptainYAH
Waretown, NJ Hot summers
Member
Members
Forum Posts: 14
Member Since:
September 13, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hi Steve,

 

Is there a way to take this apart without pumping down the refrigerant? I may have to cut an access in the bridge and replace it with an access door one way or the other.

 

Also, is there a way to confirm the fan is definateloy the problem before I try to take this apart? We're supposed to get cold weather this weekend on the east coast so I might try it then.

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

September 13, 2011
10:13 am
Avatar
Steve Pooler
Admin
Forum Posts: 1127
Member Since:
November 12, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hi Bob…Thanks for the comment…It is appreciated  Smile

 

First…Please don't run the system with only one fan operational…You will flood liquid refrigerant back to the compressor and they don't like that at all…

The ESS cooling unit/s are also known as EBS units with a return air box attached (the part that looks like a water ski ramp)

Both models have been discontinued, but the fan motor, or the complete EBS section is still available thru Dometic (and me)

If one motor runs ok, then that tells me the SMX II is sending out power (there are not separate circuits for each motor) so it's very likely you have a bad fan motor in that air handler.

You can replace the whole EBS section, or just the motor….Either way it (the EBS section) will need to come out of the boat…You should see a metal strap that is fastened on each side of the EBS box with one screw & nut…Once the strap is loose you can separate the EBS box from the ski ramp plenum…

Of course the refrigerant will need to be pumped down so you can disconnect that air handlers refrigerant lines, and you will need to disconnect or cut the fan wire…Once loose you can get to the condensate drain on the bottom & remove it's clamp & hose…

Now…To change the fan motor only…The box must be disassembled (top comes off with a bunch of 5/16 headed screws around it's perimeter)

Once that is off you must remove the coil assembly & blower housing together….The coil is fastened with more of the same screws on each side of the return air inlet cutout & there is one 7/16 headed bolt & nut that holds the blower…Then lift the whole thing out of the box…

Now you need to separate the coil from the blower housing (more screws on each side) as the motor is inside the blower housing….The rest should be pretty self explanatory… But if you need guidance with that I''m here… 

Yes it sounds like a big job & I don't want to scare you (because it's not that bad to take apart) and sometimes the hardest part is getting the EBS out of & back into where it lives….

 

The motor is $240.00…The EBS section complete is $1695.00…So it's up to you…

I don't discount on sales below $500…and Dometic frowns on me quoting discounts on a public forum or website… 

The question once removed, is what kind of condition the coil is in…Are there black spots at every solder joint ?…

If so, that's an indication that electrolysis/galvanic action is attacking those joints, and they are likely to start leaking refrigerant soon…How soon is anybody's guess, but is it worth all that work/labor to have to do it again for a leak ???

One other consideration is how long are they are going to continue to build/offer parts for a discontinued model ?

I know all this is probably not what you wanted to hear…But as always…I try to be straight up… Cool

 

Steve~

September 13, 2011
9:16 am
CaptainYAH
Waretown, NJ Hot summers
Member
Members
Forum Posts: 14
Member Since:
September 13, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hi Steve,

 

One cooling unit fan is not working. The other cooling unit is fine and blowing cold air.

The system is a Cruisair 24K BTU (split system) with 2 ESS12 cooling units with a SMX II control in a 46' 2007 Ocean. Everything has been working just fine until now. I had a new compressor and some new capacitors along with a new reversing valve installed just a few months ago, in July 2011.

 

Can you give me some trouble shooting tips?

 

By the way, this is the best website I've ever seen for trouble shooting anything.

 

Thanks for any help you can give me.

 

Bob