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Installing Marine Air VTD12K-410A
January 29, 2012
11:55 am
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Steve Pooler
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Just need to know length George...The start out at 7 foot...Next is 15 foot...

Let me know length & I'll just send you an invoice like we did with the unit...

 

Steve~

January 28, 2012
8:59 pm
GeorgeH
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Steve,

Okay, got it.  I'll send you a PM to order.

George

January 28, 2012
8:26 pm
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I don't have picture George but it is like a telephone cable with a thing on the end that's no bigger than a pencil eraser but maybe a bit longer ????....Length of the end...Like 1.5 inches....

 

Steve~

January 28, 2012
8:03 pm
GeorgeH
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Steve,

Yes, that would be great.  Where could I see what that looks like?  How small/large is the sensing end?

George

January 28, 2012
7:48 pm
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Steve Pooler
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George~

Not really…You can get a "Alternate" air sensor for around 30-40 bucks (length depending)

It plugs into your board at the "Alt" air plug & you then put the end of the wire in the sensing location.

It cancels out the one in the face of the Passport just by plugging it into the board….

 

You can then play with any place you feel it responds best…

 

Steve~ 

January 28, 2012
5:22 pm
GeorgeH
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Steve,

It looks like I will need to move the location of the Passport control.  I thought this might be a problem -- saw mention of it in the manual...  as I mounted it where my old 3 knob control had been, on the outside of the box that where my generator lives. Had been on shore power until now, but when using the generator the temperature of the control reads higher than the actual cabin temperature by about ten degrees.  So planning to move it to a more temperature neutral area.

George

January 27, 2012
3:41 pm
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Steve Pooler
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Tips on programming fan speeds:

Before entering the program mode....With the control off...Press & hold the fan button to either 1 or 6 (depending on if you are adjusting low or high)...This runs the fan only so that you can hear your adjustment...Once at speed then enter the program mode.

When adjusting High speed....Lower the reference # till you just hear the motor start to slow (most motors will start to hum a bit) then go back up 3 reference numbers above that point....This assures full voltage but also assures the control is set to lower speed with only one number drop when in normal operation.

When adjusting Low speed...You want it slow enough to be quiet but not so slow that the unit will ice in cool mode...If you find it ices when cooling...Just go back in & raise it up a bit...

Until/Unless you go with another digital control...Time delay is fine at the factory setting...But when adding another digital you don't want them at the same factory delay and should change one to start at least 10 seconds later...

 

Steve~ 

January 27, 2012
3:26 pm
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Steve Pooler
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Believe me George when I say that you are only one of many, many, others that once they upgraded one system control to digital….

 

They Always want another  Cool

 

Steve~

January 27, 2012
3:17 pm
GeorgeH
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Steve,

Makes sense.  After looking at the price of the Passport control by itself I quickly came to the same conclusion.  Although I can't upgrade the fwd unit now, I like the idea.

And I'll make those changes on the control program.

Thanks, George

January 27, 2012
3:10 pm
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Steve Pooler
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George~

Another way to think about this is...If you look at your discount amount on your last invoice....It would cover the cost of the upgrade control & you still have a old unit when just upgrading the control...

I'm guessing it may be pushing the budget but if you think about the economics...It makes sense (at least to me) to consider a complete new unit for fwd too...

You get all the benefits you now see with the aft unit, you now have 2 new units with warranty, and you have another operational unit (with control) to sell to recoup some of the costs....Operational units with control are much easier to sell than ones without control, and if you wait till the fwd unit has troubles (lets face it...it's getting old too) you may be faced with not being able to sell it, or putting money into it to git rid of it...Of course unless you give it away...

Just a thought I thought I would bring up...I'm happy to sell you the upgrade kit too  Smile

 

Oh...And as far as settings in the Passport...I would at least look at setting fan speeds & time delay...

If the upper fan speed is not calibrated to the install...You may drop 2-3 speeds without noticing any speed change.

Low speed adjustment can lower noise considerably.

Time delay setting helps when shifting from shore to gen or back...Both units will never try to restart at the same time.

 

Steve~ 

January 27, 2012
2:43 pm
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Steve Pooler
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That's Great News George  Cool

 

GeorgeH said:

Hi Steve,

Yes!  Finally all installed and running.  Getting the four way splitter made and installed, and the new ducting fitted and run took some time.  The new Passport control works very, very nicely.  So far I would say substituting the new 12K for the old 16K has worked out well.  The compressor is very quiet, only noise is the fan.  I'm using the default settings of the Passport control right now — no need to change those as far as I can tell.  I see a small red light inside the electrical box, when it is opened up and the unit on  – assume that is normal?…Yes it indicates the board is getting power… Would it be possible to trade out my old three knob control on my fwd unit for the same Passport control?…Yes… And if so is that difficult to do?…No not hard at all…You would need  the kit/part # 223100262 listed on the upper part of page 12 of the Marine Airrr price book: /2011-official-marine-airrrr-price-book-catalog-marine-ac-products-marine-air-conditioning-parts/ ...I do discount the controls but the discount is 5% less than on units 

What comes in the kit is listed at the bottom of that section...In your case with the plug in 3 knob it should be pretty much Plug & Play swap out.

 

Many thanks again!

George

January 27, 2012
1:13 pm
GeorgeH
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Hi Steve,

Yes!  Finally all installed and running.  Getting the four way splitter made and installed, and the new ducting fitted and run took some time.  The new Passport control works very, very nicely.  So far I would say substituting the new 12K for the old 16K has worked out well.  The compressor is very quiet, only noise is the fan.  I'm using the default settings of the Passport control right now -- no need to change those as far as I can tell.  I see a small red light inside the electrical box, when it is opened up and the unit on  -- assume that is normal?  Would it be possible to trade out my old three knob control on my fwd unit for the same Passport control?  And if so is that difficult to do?

Many thanks again!

George

January 18, 2012
9:10 pm
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Steve Pooler
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Thanks George Laugh

Looking Fwd to hear how you feel it compares to your old unit...

 

Steve~

January 18, 2012
6:31 pm
GeorgeH
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Hi Steve,

I've been away from the boat for a week, but I will be back there tomorrow.  I'll let you know how it works out.

-- George

January 17, 2012
11:40 am
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Steve Pooler
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Well George...Last we knew you were close... Wink

So How's the project coming ???

Just checkin in  Cool

 

Steve 

January 11, 2012
8:09 pm
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Steve Pooler
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It's All About Air Flow George~

Just like I tried to explain in your troubleshooting thread...Maybe go back & re- re-read some of that.

The new unit with no duct is not restricted at all, and it's air coil is brand new clean...

If you want warmer air to come out...Slow the fan speed down...Or block off part of the discharge air to simulate ductwork.

Also IR thermometers are only good at reading "Surface" temps they don't read Air temps.

Regardless of what the manual say's I would use both filters.

You can use a hose clamp to attach your bonding wire to the water coil...Open up the clamp, wrap it around a coil & get it started again...Then just slip the bare end of the wire underneath & snug it down.

Your new order shipped today...

 

Steve~

January 11, 2012
7:34 pm
GeorgeH
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Steve.

I have it up and running!  Without any ducting attached yet.  Wiring and plumbing done.  Passport control seems to work very nicely.

And in cool mode, it blows nice and cold.

Two questions:

Testing just now:  In heat mode, on highest fan setting, it is heating up the cabin slowly, but the air coming out of the blower does not feel as hot as my old Cabin Mate fwd unit does on heat mode. When I measure at the fwd unit metal supply grill w/ and IR thermometer the temp is about 125 degrees. The new aft Turbo [at the blower box as no ducting yet] it is about 113 degrees.  Why might there be so much difference? [I have never been able to tell the size of my fwd unit -- may be 16K or 12K?].  If it is a 16K could this be just the difference in a 16K unit and a 12K?

I see mention in the manual to use only one air filter.  Should I use the one that comes on the new unit, or the one I have in the intake grill pictured in the related troubleshooting thread?  [Unlike the prior installation I had where the unit was pretty much in a sealed box except for the intake filter, in the new installation I have had to cut down some of the sides of the box so there is a bit more air flow, although it is still under a berth.]

Thanks, George

January 11, 2012
5:48 pm
GeorgeH
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Steve,

Thanks for that.  Let me know about the order when you can.

Install question:  On my old Cabin Mate, I had a bonding wire that connected to the metal base of the unit. On this new Marine Air, I assume I can attach that same wire to one of the bolts that holds down the compressor -- correct?

--George

January 11, 2012
7:57 am
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Steve Pooler
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No box is needed for the 4" round grill George...As you guessed the duct slides right over it...

I'll get working on the order & send invoice as before...Though it looks like you may still have credit due you...

Steve~

January 10, 2012
5:35 pm
GeorgeH
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Hi Steve,

Thanks for that.  All understood.  I sent the 655 splitter back to you today by UPS.

Here's an updated list of what I will need:

1] Blower adapter.

2] Four feet of 4" ducting.

3] One, four inch round black plastic grille. [Do I need a box behind that grille or will it connect directly to the hose?]

 

I am having the air divider fabricated with a 6 inch inlet, and one five inch port plus two four inch ports on the supply side. So, if it turns out I do need to upgrade one leg to five inches, the divider will still work.

--George

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