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airhandler install
August 18, 2011
8:19 am
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Steve Pooler
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Are you asking how long it will last ?....As long as the rest of the system lasts...It's put together with solder joints...

It's how the factory assembles & joins all that bent up tubing that makes it into a unit...  Wink

 

Steve~

August 18, 2011
8:06 am
unique_name
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thanks steve, 

 

that makes me feel better.  i was thinking with the vibrations the soldering was not as permanent

a solution as i would like (which is forever at this point).  im sure he is feeling the same way by

now and just wanted to make sure he wasnt taking the easy route just to make me go away for

however long sold joint might hold.

 

jim

August 17, 2011
8:14 pm
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Steve Pooler
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My Recommendation is…If he has no problem with soldering…It will be a permanent fix…I know when I do it it is….

 

I actually used to cut out the flares to any air handler (factory supplied) and would sweat (solder) them….

Much less chance of a leak now…Or later…Flares are only good if they are…

By that I mean a guy really needs to know how to make a proper flare, which is not easy for refrigerant use…Water is one thing…Refrigerant is another when talking flares & very small leaks….What may be a drip every month with water...Will be a major refrigerant leak that needs refilling very often....

Solder is best if he has the equipment & can do it well…

It's also permanent… I wouldn't worry about leaks in those joints for many years…

 

Steve~

August 17, 2011
4:30 pm
unique_name
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hi steve,

 

i pulled out the old handler and went the route of running a duct to the top

of the steering station bulkhead as you recommended.  the aft duct was not an option

with the windows.  i had the new airhandler installed by my local guy.  unfortunatly it has not been gone as

smoothly as i had hoped.  he has been chasing a leak on and off for close to 3 weeks.  he finally

put dye in the system last week. i went down on friday and found oil and the dye at the splice

in the low pressure line.  this splice has already been replaced once during this process because we found

oil at it.  he had been talking of running 2 new lines(high and low pressure) from air handler to compressor

to eliminate the splice in each.  now he is talking of soldering the lines instead.  i'm feeling that is just

ticking time bomb.  what would you recommend? 

 

thanks,

 

jim

January 10, 2011
9:29 am
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Steve Pooler
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Jim~

Ideally yes...You would like to get the discharge as high as possible...But in your case you are limited by the side windows, unless you were to build a internal (Box inside the cabin) chase (of course out of nice teak etc) to get up higher than the outside deck...

One good thing about the air handler/s I listed is, they are ductable, and that duct can also be split to go more than one direction, to more than one discharge grill...

If you were to utilize 2 discharges...run one duct forward (maybe into the steering station with a wedge grill on top) and then one aft to the aft part of that bulkhead face as high as could be mounted...You might get better overall cabin temp with better circulation, and of course aim the grill louvers at the ceiling so that the cold air falls... 

These are some wood grills that are available ** you don't have permission to see this link ** and a wedge grill is like the one on the top right...They can also be mounted on a vertical wall to get the air directed higher (they just stick out into the cabin a bit)...These grills are very high quality (can be solid teak, or any other wood) with multi direction louvers.

 

Steve~

January 9, 2011
9:28 pm
unique_name
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steve,

 

maybe i'm just complicating the project.   the current design has the supply vent located right over and flush with the

return grill and no more than 30" off the floor.  i was thinking more along the lines of trying to design a more efficient supply vent

which would project the air upward and away from the return grill.   what do you think?

 

thanks,

 

jim

January 6, 2011
11:01 am
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Steve Pooler
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[Image Can Not Be Found]EFL16 Install.JPG

 

As you see...I'm not having much luck either...I'll have to get with my web guy...

Anyway...I have seen the pictures...What are your concerns or questions  ?

Still seems to be a pretty straight forward installation with the new air handler in the section below the original (removing that fan that it looks like someone added maybe trying to boost airflow thru that old EFL unit) Then build a 80 sq in box (14 X 6 or 16 X 5) behind where the 3 knob is sitting with a 7" hole in it for the flex duct to connect from either air handler I linked...Then close it back in with a new piece of ply with holes for return & discharge...

 

Steve~

January 5, 2011
11:05 am
unique_name
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steve,

 

send the pics to the service email.  once you post them i will add comments to each picture.

 

thanks,

jim 

January 4, 2011
2:07 pm
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Steve Pooler
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Other than following the instructions in this post : /forum/just-a-note-or-two/uploading-and-inserting-an-image-in-a-forum-post-is-very-easy/#p184 you got me...

 

If all else fails send the pics to ** you don't have permission to see this link **

 

Steve~

January 4, 2011
1:39 pm
unique_name
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steve,

 

can't seem to upload pics.  url is not filled in after completing the selection and upload process from my computer.

tried it a second time and recived the error the file already exists.   tried it on IE and firefox.   any ideas?

 

thanks,

jim 

January 3, 2011
8:24 pm
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Steve Pooler
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Of course we love pictures Jim !!!

Anything that helps is good...Happy to work with you in any way I can to achieve the best outcome...

 

Steve~

January 3, 2011
6:39 pm
unique_name
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steve,

 

ok, here goes.  it will not be as straightforward a swap as you had with the 43' you mentioned in our original conversation.

the cabinetry is the same and there is no depth issue we were originally concerned with,  but in my application there is

an "L" shaped couch whos end covers about a quarter of the current intake/discharge grill.  so some fabrication is

called for and this is where i was hoping for some guidance in coming up with an efficient model.  i will also be converting the old

rotary controls to digital, in for a penny in for a dollar.

 

would you be interested in seeing the pictures?

 

thanks,

jim

January 3, 2011
4:04 pm
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Steve Pooler
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Hi Jim,

Sounds like you have to old model EFL-16 that was discontinued many years ago...

We usually replace it with one of the new squirrel cage models placing it behind the previous return grill, then building a box behind the upper hole it was mounted behind with a 7" oval, or round ring mounted, that you can connect 7" flex duct between the new blower & new box...

Note: The new air handler/s are a draw thru design that could be split/ducted elsewhere too...

Newest replacement: ** you don't have permission to see this link **

** you don't have permission to see this link **

** you don't have permission to see this link **The only thing I can't get into on the open forum is pricing...Otherwise I prefer here so that others can learn too...

 

Steve~ 

January 3, 2011
2:38 pm
unique_name
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steve,

 

i pm'ed you a while back from the hatteras site concerning the replacement of the saloon airhandler in my 1973 38' hatteras.  it is the original double fan unit and is married to a 16k cruiseair compressor.  i have moved forward with the project and removed the wall exposing the airhandler.  i've taken pictures and measurements.  since this is not really a general installation question, which venue would be better for you, here or thru the hatteras pm? (btw, your inbox is full there)   

 

thanks,
jim