Well I went back down to the boat after 18 hours with the "minimum" charge scenario and after the system was able to pull out the rest of the humidity and get to minimum load, it froze up again. So besides the hot compressor problem, the unit still freezes eventually. This charge level can cool the cabin but has these other performance problems, but you already knew that. I was not able to try the higher charge scenario, I'll post back when I get to it this weekend.

In the meantime, I have a frozen compressor on the other unit. can increasing the start capacitor value help without other problems? Tecumseh says that you can go up one capacitor value from 72-88 to 88-108. Any higher? Kush suggested hitting it so I'll try that as well. If that unit cannot be salvaged, how do you decide on compressor vs entire condensing unit? If its whole condenser, are there any problems reclaiming the 417A and replacing with R22?

Thanks.

Steve

What factors do you consider when deciding if a compressor change out is a good idea vs. the entire condenser? What are the discounted prices of both options and where do you ship from?

Thanks.

Steve

i can't get the contact form to work on this phone.

ggidzinski@cfl.rr.com

Post edited 9:34 am – February 20, 2012 by reefgeorge

I see that I never posted a final summary. I eventually charged the unit until I met the 120F compressor temp maximum and 58psi suction minimum and tried that charge level for a while (still below the charts on suction psi). Well awhile is now coming up on two years without a single problem. As a matter of fact I have never gone this long without needing to look at the charge and I have been through two winters with heat operating without compressor cycling on extreme weather cabin warm ups. Thank for all of your help and getting me off of residential HVAC targets and on to marine AC guidelines.

Next topic. I still have not addressed the frozen compressor on the other unit. My current thinking is to use the same frame and electronics (caps and board are all new) but replace the compressor, dryer, exchanger tubes and possibly the access ports. A few have said that compressor and dryer only for a 10 year old unit is dicey because of the potential for exchanger leaks. Is this approach workable? Are all of the parts still available. Its a 2002 vintage packaged 16,000 btu Cruisair unit.

I guess another option is to avoid a rebuild by purchasing a complete compressor rack replacement which would ship with R417a refrigerant. As I understand it R22 uses mineral oil and 417a can theoretically use mineral, POE, or AB oil so the 417a based replacement condensing unit would be a direct drop in replacement without an oil compatibility problem as long as this new unit is shipped with 417a and mineral oil. is this the case?

Thanks,

George