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Steve we spoke,old issue new post……

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Member

32avanti

posts 12

9:13 pm June 2, 2011

recently installed a 16000btu marine air unit model# VRE16K-H with the older style digital controller. upon completion of the installation of the used unit we have encoutered the following.

Unit powers on and calls for cooling, fans run,compressor cycles on and unit cools boat very well.Once the cabin comes down in temp and the unit cycles off is where the trouble starts,when the temp rises back up to call for cooling again the fans kick on and the compressor tries to start,gets loud and kicks main breaker on boat. at this point the compessor seems to get hot and after waiting about 25 minutes will run and cool properly again.

If you leave the cabin door open and fool the unit into running it will cool all day but i wont do that for fear of cooking something.

My brother is a residential hvac tech with access to the poper gauges and r-22 but he is hesitant to perform service with out knowing proper pressures.

we have gotten all sorts of backyard advice but he tinks the reversing valve is not releasing properly/quickly enough do to either an over or under charge condition.

he asks me to find out capacity of refrigerant and proper pressures at 70 on the wet bulb and a 80 degree cabin temp .

or are we way off base here,maybe you have seen this condition before…………?

thanks in advance.

 

 
 
My first guess would be that this is one of the older reciprocating (piston) compressors and that it is low on refrigerant causing it to overheat….

Next but not as likely…The reversing valve has not shifted fully, causing hot gas to dump back on top of the compressor & evidenced by a hot suction line back into the compressor…Which will also cause overheat & possible liquid slugging on restart as the refrigerant boils off…Liquid cannot be compressed, thus the loud compressor & breaker tripping…..It would also result in poor overall performance of the unit…The fact you say it cools the boat well is why I say less likely…

Tell your brother that these marine R-22 systems should be similar to what he is used to in any residential system…

I need to know water temp that the boat sits in, & cabin temp to give pressure estimates.

The Model sticker should tell you factory charge by ounces…I don't have that info but it's likely around 24 oz.

We are looking for 15 to 18 degree coil TD

Also of note for your brother:

Different than home units…The reversing valve is energized in heat.

The digital control (depending on model) will usually energize the reversing valve coil before the compressor starts to equalize system pressure (he should be able to see this on his gauges on re-start) and then de-energize for cooling.

Hope this helps…I'd like to know the answer…From your description it's not a normal problem.

 

Member

32avanti

posts 12

9:19 pm June 2, 2011

Steve,

 

I posted my orginal post and your reply from last yeadras you stated my log-in may have been deleted.

 

 so we are back on the case here and ready to put the gauges on as my brother the HVAC tech seems to agree with the low charge thoughts you have but is wondering about pressures.

 

 You asked above about water and air temps,at the moment we are in the high 70s to low 80's with days that spike to 95 the lake temp is at 65 degress .

 so what kind of pressures should we expect with a proper charge

 

water temp 65-68f cabin temp 77-80 at start up

 

FYI the problem is not affected by temp

 

thanks

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

8:29 am June 3, 2011

Hi Jay~

Glad you got back in…Sorry for the deletion…

With the temps you give I'm thinking pressures might be around 65-67 suction & 215-230 head with a clean condenser coil & full water flow…But since you bought the unit used & it may have a scaled up condenser coil they both could be higher than that…Head will affect suction some….And the size duct you installed can affect this too…But your brother likely already knows this…

To be sure someone did not put the wrong gas in (or mix it)…And since you do have a brother that is a tech and likely to have the equipment…I'd evacuate the unit, and go with a fresh charge of virgin R-22…

Again if he wants to weigh in the charge with a scale…That spec should be on the unit's data plate.

The main thing that you are looking for is a cold suction line back to the compressor (this cools the compressor) without the compressor itself getting cold…Most residential HVAC techs don't have this luxury of feeling the suction line at the compressor while charging because they usually can't get past the running condenser fan to reach it…But tell him while charging…Constantly hold the suction line…When he feels it change from cool to cold…Stop charging…

Also he can charge by Superheat…Were looking for around 12-15 degrees…Cold cabin as much as 20 but no more…

If he can't get a cold suction at those pressures I mentioned above (or without the head climbing way high) then I would say that the condenser coil is scaled up (hard water scale) & will need to be acid washed…

Let me know how it goes…

 

Steve~

Member

32avanti

posts 12

10:00 pm June 6, 2011

Steve,

 

 My brother and  I spent a few hours on this yesterday….. upon initial hook up of the gauges the pressures seemed close to what you suggested but a bit high,my brother insisted on a complete reclaim,evacuation and weigh in of proper amount of refrigerant (17oz)so he had a fresh start to base things off of. After performing the above mentioned the pressures seemed to right on the money with your suggestions but the unit still is affected with the same condition no restart after temp is satisfied. pops main breaker on boat.

 

My brother asked me to report to you the following,after recharge we have suction psi of 65 head psi 220 cooling properly with a cool suction line,pumping solid stream of water overbaord,compressor and suction line extremely hot.

 

Once temp is satisfied and unit calls for cooling again the compressor becomes loud and slugs, pops breaker.

 

Once unit cools it will start back up and properlly cool.

 

Some of the "old timers" on his crew are suggesting lack of cooling to the compressor and saying if reversing valve was bad it would not cool that good?  I there some type of seperate "loop" or "Coil" thes sends water to cool the compressor that could possibly be clogged?

 

But we are not familiar with how it works and i dont want too many hands in the pot.

 

So brother and I will wait for your opinion.

 

Thanks again Steve!

 

Jay

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

10:01 am June 7, 2011

32avanti said:

 

Jay~

I'm thinking your "VRE" 16K unit, because of it's age (90-91) is a piston type compressor unit, as opposed to a rotary compressor…Rotary's run Hot…Piston's should Not…I need to confirm which type your unit has…If it is a piston type the model # on the top of the compressor should read AK 8515E…

 

Steve,

 

 My brother and  I spent a few hours on this yesterday….. upon initial hook up of the gauges the pressures seemed close to what you suggested but a bit high,my brother insisted on a complete reclaim,evacuation and weigh in of proper amount of refrigerant (17oz)so he had a fresh start to base things off of. After performing the above mentioned the pressures seemed to right on the money with your suggestions but the unit still is affected with the same condition no restart after temp is satisfied. pops main breaker on boat.…This is all good…Except the breaker tripping…I don't feel we have a reversing valve problem with those pressures…More on the breaker in a minute…

 

My brother asked me to report to you the following,after recharge we have suction psi of 65 head psi 220 cooling properly with a cool suction line,pumping solid stream of water overbaord,compressor and suction line extremely hot.…This statement is confusing Jay…Which is it ?…First you say Cool suction Line…Then you say Extremely Hot…The refrigerant suction line where it enters the compressor should be "Beer Can Cold"

 

Once temp is satisfied and unit calls for cooling again the compressor becomes loud and slugs, pops breaker.

How do we know it slugs ?

 

Once unit cools it will start back up and properlly cool.

 

Some of the "old timers" on his crew are suggesting lack of cooling to the compressor and saying if reversing valve was bad it would not cool that good?  I there some type of seperate "loop" or "Coil" thes sends water to cool the compressor that could possibly be clogged?…Dang those "Old Timers"…They are right almost every time !!!  Wink …

But not quite this time…Yes overheating will cause a compressor to seize, but in this case the only cooling of the compressor is done by returning refrigerant (the seawater only takes the heat out of the refrigerant) that's why charge level is so critical…Home units have the condenser fan to help by drawing air across the compressor.

 

But we are not familiar with how it works and i dont want too many hands in the pot.

 

So brother and I will wait for your opinion.

 

Here is where we get back to the breaker thing…What breaker ?…Main shore or the A/C breaker ?…What amperage is that breaker ?

What kind of shorepower do you have ?…Are you in a Marina with 30 amp service, or is this behind a house with 15-20 amp service adapted to the boat ?

What is the incoming voltage, and do you notice it drop as the unit runs ???…Low voltage can cause overheated compressors too…

What could be happening is the shore wire was not sized for A/C load, and is overheating as the unit runs, thus dropping voltage…Then when the unit cycles it's not off long enough for those wire/connections to cool enough to supply the voltage/amperage needed for a re-start…50 amps or more (LRA on that compressor is 74) and Marine Air did not use a Start Relay & Capacitor to help either….

I'm assuming your brother has verified with his gauges that the system pressures are equalized before the unit tries to re-start ???…I'm sure he would have mentioned if not…

We can add a All in One Start Assist Kit (good) or a Dometic SmartStart (best) but First & Foremost you need to be sure about your shore power….Compressors hate low voltage, but if you have overheating wires & connections you could have a fire when they finally give out… Cry

An easy way to verify this is if you have a generator installed…Run the unit on generator & if it cycles ok that way…You know it's a shore power problem…Otherwise break out the meters & check for hot wires & connections….

 

S

 

Thanks again Steve!

 

Jay

Member

32avanti

posts 12

3:43 pm June 7, 2011

Steve, I miss poke suction line ice cold,liquid line and compressor very hot. Boat is on dedicated 30a single circuit. The unit is popping the main shore power breaker on main panel,needle on panel indicates 115-120? Does not move at all when unit kicks on…….my bother mentioned that the compressor acts like its "slugging" that's all. Unit powered on a 30a dedicated breaker in main panel

I guess its time to look at wiring

Member

32avanti

posts 12

3:45 pm June 7, 2011

Post edited 9:20 pm – June 7, 2011 by 32avanti


^Stupid Smart Phone^

 

Steve, I miss spoke suction line ice cold,liquid line and compressor very hot.

 

Boat is on dedicated 30a single circuit in a marina, The unit is popping the main shore power breaker on main panel inside boat the boat was pre wired for  electric heat from the Factory we used the 30a breaker in ac panel for the air install ,needle on panel indicates 115-120? Does not move at all when unit kicks on…….my bother mentioned that the compressor acts like its "slugging" that's all?? im kind of out of my realm here with terminoligy.

 

Unit is  powered on  a sepaerate  30a dedicated breaker in main panel.

 

I will be at boat after work on Wed and try to get model # of compressor and take some readings if I can find a buddy with a meter stay tuned and thanks again.

I guess its time to look at wiring, guess I will start on dock and work my way inward?

Funny thing I want to mention Boat across dock is same model and make and year we mimicked his ac install and did everything the same and of course his is fine 1st thing im doing is plugging into his shore power outlet.

I have been in the same slip for 11years and never tripped a breaker though?

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

11:29 am June 8, 2011

Jay~

Also take a look at the Run Capacitor…It may be breaking down under load…If it looks like pooched out frozen soda can it's likely your problem…Your brother should be able to match it up with his A/C parts supplier.

 

Steve~

Member

32avanti

posts 12

7:31 am June 9, 2011

Steve,

 

 Made it ti the boat last night alone checked Model # it is the VRE 16K.

 

 It was in the upper 90's today so I grabbed the meter and started at the unit with it running and cooling I checked the voltage on the power incoming into the large white control box I have a solid 117-119v with the unit running under a full load and within 2-3 minutes a VERY hot compressor. The wires from the breaker panel to the unit are room temp.

 

 We then tried the shore power in the boat across the docks recepticale and let the unit cool down and rechecked with the same results,so unless there is a wiring problem between the control panel and the compressor I think the electrical power supply is ok?

 

What would I check from the control box to the compressor except for loose or corroded wiring,wich I plan on doing over the weekend.

 

Just as a side note mounted on the side of the white "control box" i discovered a "kick Start" capacitor im assuming this is for the compressor?

You mentioned the run capacitor is that under the grey plastic cap on top of the compressor,if so it appears to look fine?

 

I guess at this point we need to figure out what would cause the compressor to get so hot so fast this is obviosly why it wont restart until cool,if there was a pro in the area I would have called them in but we have nobody that I know of.

 

Any other thoughts are welcome as my brother who is way more mechanically inclined than me will be up at lake for the weekend and this is driving him nuts so I know he will be all over it.

 

Thanks!

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

8:17 am June 9, 2011

32avanti said:

Steve,

 

 Made it ti the boat last night alone checked Model # it is the VRE 16K.

 

 It was in the upper 90's today so I grabbed the meter and started at the unit with it running and cooling I checked the voltage on the power incoming into the large white control box I have a solid 117-119v with the unit running under a full load and within 2-3 minutes a VERY hot compressor. The wires from the breaker panel to the unit are room temp...Remember I said: "Rotary" compressors run hot…

 

 We then tried the shore power in the boat across the docks recepticale and let the unit cool down and rechecked with the same results,so unless there is a wiring problem between the control panel and the compressor I think the electrical power supply is ok?

 

What would I check from the control box to the compressor except for loose or corroded wiring,wich I plan on doing over the weekend.

 

Just as a side note mounted on the side of the white "control box" i discovered a "kick Start" capacitor im assuming this is for the compressor?…Ahh Yes…So the unit has likely had this problem all along as it did not come with a Kick Start from the factory…Bet it was added by someone trying to solve this problem…

You mentioned the run capacitor is that under the grey plastic cap on top of the compressor,if so it appears to look fine?…This description (Gray plastic cap on top) Tells me it's a Rotary compressor…The part under that grey cap is the compressor thermal/overload…We need to find out if this is tripping off during the re-start…Bypassing it is one way…Watching voltage on the short wire from it to the compressor is another.

The run capacitor should still be looked at & tested if your brother has a tester…You will find it in the big white control box…Looks like a small silver soda can with wire connections on top…If the top around the connections is pooched out…Replace it…

 

I guess at this point we need to figure out what would cause the compressor to get so hot so fast this is obviosly why it wont restart until cool,if there was a pro in the area I would have called them in but we have nobody that I know of.…Again…Rotary compressors do get very hot because the hot discharge gas is in contact with the shell of the compressor…

 

Steve~

 

Any other thoughts are welcome as my brother who is way more mechanically inclined than me will be up at lake for the weekend and this is driving him nuts so I know he will be all over it.

 

Thanks!


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