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Steve I know I have a leak

Post
Member

Robby

posts 4

3:28 pm April 25, 2011

On the CA on my 43DCMY Hatt.I have family who does full time HAVC in our hometown and he has vollenterred to help me find and fix the leak.We serviced the unit before we moved the boat a couple of weeks ago and it worked well for the whole trip.You may have seen my post on the Hatt forum.Bren went to the boat this past Friday night and she was getting a low PS fault so I told her to shut it down.Are most of these leaks at the fittings or do you normally see leaks in the lines themselfs?Also on our boat the blower in the main salon is on full blast all the time and is really irratatingly loud.How can we get this unit to act like the other one so it will slow as the temp falls or rises?Thanks in advance Robby and Bren in Mobile

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

7:30 am April 26, 2011

Robby~

With the age of the system and being in seawater most of it's life…Leaks can be at any one or more solder joints that hold the tubing together…The air handler is made with many, as is the condensing unit…

Galvanic Action is usually the culprit, and the first place it seems to attack is dissimilar metal at joints (solder)

 

Fan…If you have SMX, SMXII or SMXir….A simple press of the "fan" button will bring back auto fan speed….

You will either notice the light above the fan button Go Out for SMX & SMXII, as the light indicates manual fan…

SMXir has a Manual light on the left side of the control that will light to indicate manual fan…

With any of the three SMX controls…Pressing either Slow or Fast will change fan speed, But it also makes it stay where you last set it with those buttons (IE: manual fan) and the manual fan light will be on…Press the FAN button, manual light go's away & you have auto speed….

 

Steve~

Member

Robby

posts 4

8:24 am April 26, 2011

These units are 3 years old.The fan in the main salon is uncontrolable.I think the PO told me he had to have the unit made and it runs wide open all the time.

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

8:55 am April 26, 2011

Robby~

Does it have the same control as the other system ??? (what control is it ?…It should say on the front plate)

Made or not…It will depend on the control, and what terminal the fan motor is connected to.

Does the fan shut off with the compressor when the cabin gets to the set temp ?

If not…Does it at least shut off when you press the power button on the control ?

 

Steve~ 

Member

Robby

posts 4

9:00 am April 26, 2011

Steve Pooler said:

Robby~

Does it have the same control as the other system ??? (what control is it ?…It should say on the front plate)

Made or not…It will depend on the control, and what terminal the fan motor is connected to.

Does the fan shut off with the compressor when the cabin gets to the set temp ?

If not…Does it at least shut off when you press the power button on the control ?

 

Steve~ 

Yes the same controler SMX?The fan runs wide open reguardless of what the compressor does but it will shut off when you hit off.

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

9:31 am April 26, 2011

Robby said:

Steve Pooler said:

Robby~

Does it have the same control as the other system ??? (what control is it ?…It should say on the front plate)

Made or not…It will depend on the control, and what terminal the fan motor is connected to.

Does the fan shut off with the compressor when the cabin gets to the set temp ?

If not…Does it at least shut off when you press the power button on the control ?

 

Steve~ 

Yes the same controler SMX?The fan runs wide open reguardless of what the compressor does but it will shut off when you hit off.

If it does not cycle with the compressor…Then at least it seems it is wired to the fan output on the board, and that the fan triac is good on the board…If not, it would not shut off with the off button.

I'll bet the low fan speed is set very high in the programming mode of the SMX…Do you have the SMX manual ?

In there are the programming steps to set low fan speed…You can set it as low as you want but if you set it too low the coil might ice up…In which case you would go back in & bump it up some…

If you don't have the manual or a program card let me know & I will post a PDF version that you can download.

 

Steve~

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

8:21 am April 27, 2011

Post edited 10:42 am – April 27, 2011 by Steve Pooler


Bill Root said:

Steve:

 

I'm the PO of Robby's boat. Let me provide a little background regarding the fan in the salon unit that only runs on high. This is a 1973 43' Hatteras DCMY. The air handler in the salon was the old style flat unit with two fans blowing through it. When I had the SMX units installed in the boat three years ago, my Cruiseair Tech determined that the old air handler was leaking badly and was beyond repair. We contacted Cruiseair to get a replacement unit and were told they no longer stocked that style unit, but they would custom make one for $900. Because the space the air handler fits in is too small for the new squirrel cage style units, I opted to have them make the custom one. When it arrived Cruiseair told my tech that they no longer had the multi-speed fans they put in the old units, so they installed single speed fans. When the tech hooked it up to the SMX unit, all we could get it to do was run full blast as long as heating or cooling was called for. The fan speed controls on the SMX had no effect either. The only way to stop the fan was to shut off the unit. The compressor goes on/off according to the temp in the room, but the fan keeps going as long as heat or cooling is called for. Hopefully this will give you a little more information to help provide a solution for Robby.

 

Bill…Thanks for joining & clarifying the situation in the above PM…I've taken the liberty of copying your PM to me & posting it here so that all can see it & my answer…That's what these forums are for right ?  Wink

 

Anyway first a bit of history…The Air handler you are speaking of was a model EFL-16…They also made a EFL-12..Both had dual propeller type fans and were "Blow Thru" designs as opposed to Draw Thru…They also made single motor models called EFB-xx…The EFB's ranged in size from 4K to 16K…The basic design (the EFB's) were Cruisair's first air handlers starting around 1960…So yes it's a 50+ year old design that leaves a lot to be desired when compared to today's squirrel cage models that are Draw Thru types, ductable, much quieter, and move more air…

 

What also happened is the supply of Shaded Pole motors dried up & I guess all they could come up with that would fit & work was a Split Capacitor design…Split capacitor motors are not really made to slow down…At the time Cruisair designed the SMX family of controls they were only using Shaded Pole designs that can be slowed easily, so they did not run into, or address that issue…Plus they really wanted to get away from continuing to build 50 year old design air handler/s due to the drawbacks I have already mentioned with noise & air flow…Not to mention there is no good way to put a filter on the coil to protect from clogging it up with dust & reducing air flow further.

 

So to be honest Bill…I would not have replaced that air handler with the same type…Your guys either didn't see the options, or maybe you didn't want to go this route…But…I have replaced several of those EFL models with squirrel cage models…Yes even on your model boat, although it's been awhile…

 

As I remember…There is space for the newer type down lower behind the return air grill at deck level…You would mount the Air handler on the deck and then run duct up to a box that you would build or I could supply (made of plastic) and placed behind the existing discharge grill…It's really not that hard a retrofit & the improvement in performance & sound is beyond words…Plus you still have the original look…

 

The other option (although not as good) is to replace the Cruisair SMXII with a Marine Air control that has a setting for Split Capacitor motors…Since the Dometic buyout of Cruisair/Marine Air & the merge…And since Marine Air already had a control with this capability…They have not added it to the Cruisair controls…

 

The control route will be cheaper, but won't be as dramatic in overall comfort & performance.

 

Here is a link to the air handler I would use:

 http://www.dometic.com/enus/Am…..taid=89269

 

The second page of this PDF spec sheet has a picture of the basic idea of how you would do the retrofit.

http://www.dometic.com/be61c8e…..5f6c.fodoc

 

Steve~

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

8:52 am April 27, 2011

Post edited 9:09 am – April 27, 2011 by Steve Pooler


I don have any pics of a dual motor EFL model but, Here is a EFB single motor version of your air handler that I took out of a Gulfstar trawler & did the same type retrofit…

You can see that it's not really possible to put a filter on the back of that unit due to the fan…

Just click on the image to make it larger…

 

http://i54.tinypic.com/50l91g.jpg

 

http://i56.tinypic.com/35jl2e1.jpg

 

http://i52.tinypic.com/rk1vea.jpg

 

Steve~

Member

Robby

posts 4

4:24 pm April 27, 2011

So call me stubborn.Bill built a great boat out of a very good boat so I dont have a lot to fix and we are greatful to Bill and Kathy for that.Cook it down for us .As a mech I know that there is a fix that can be worked out on our limited budget.Steve!!!!

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

9:18 am April 29, 2011

Sorry Robby…Been a bit busy around here & I guess I overlooked your last post…

The way I see it you have three options:

  • Fix the existing leak (likely at a flare joint at the air handler since the install) & live with the noise.
  • The above plus change to a Marine Air control that controls (slows) split capacitor motors better.
  • Change the air handler to the newer, quieter, more efficient model & use the existing SMXII control.

I can't quote labor, and you did mention you have family in the HVAC business so that may be better for you.

  • Obviously the first option is the cheapest.
  • The retrofit kit to the Marine Air control retails for between $655 -$680 depending on if you want Passport I/O or the Elite.
  • The newer air handler retails for $1005.00 plus any installation items like duct & adapters etc…

I can't quote discounts here in the open forum (Dometic rules) but if you want to PM, e-mail, or call I can.

I can also walk your installer through the installation on this end if you decide to go with the air handler…That really is the best option for the best outcome…Come summer that existing AH is really going to have a hard time keeping up…Even when new…It just does not move enough air to cool that cabin well. 

Steve~


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