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Marine Air heats but does not cool

Post
Guest

tmh

3:57 pm June 30, 2010

Post edited 9:21 pm – June 30, 2010 by tmh


Just getting my unit back online after a few years where the boat wasn't used – new to me so figuring things out. 12,000 BTU, water temp around 70 F and air temp only 75 or so. 1988 boat, not sure if original equip. A/C or not. Marine air, Vector type (I think) three knob control.I finally got controls figured out/repaired and good cooling water flow from pump to discharge. Compressor turns on, but coils get hot even when control is turned to full "cooler". This is a three dial control, bottom control is for warmer-cooler control.

The unit could well need recharging, but would it heat (even when set to cold) if that were the case? Other ideas? Could it be the temp probe? Control box on back side of controller behind temp control dial? Ideas? Thx.

Also, while I'm asking… is there a filter on these things that needs cleaning? There is a simple filter in the wall cover piece where air would get into the area, but any directly on the unit? If so, where? How do I get it out to clean?

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

5:12 pm June 30, 2010

Easiest way to find out if the unit is running in the heat mode is…While the unit is running, feel the water coil (the part the water pumps thru) if it is cool to cold the unit is running in heat & hopefully it's just a t-stat problem…It could be out of calibration, or wired wrong (you mention figured out/repaired) or it could be bad.

If it is a Marine Control…The yellow wire is the reversing valve wire.

If it is a Cruisair Control…The blue wire is the reversing valve wire.

Remove the reversing valve wire to verifiy that the unit will cool.

If the unit cools with the wire removed then we know the reversing valve is not stuck…With three knob controls they tended to stick from lack of use…A stuck reversing valve is not good, hard to free up, and usually expensive to replace.

Get back to me with your findings & we can take it from there…

Steve~
 

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

5:26 pm June 30, 2010

Also read this post for the answer to your filter question & more….

http://marine-ac.com/forum/mai…..e-checkup/

Steve~

Guest

tmh

8:12 pm June 30, 2010

OK, so I detach the yelloq wire from where…the back of the knob/control box? So, with yellow disconnected it can now only run in "cool" mode, right? Sounds like a plan.

Is there a set screw or the like on the thermostat that gives it a "normal" temp. to base "hotter" or colder on?

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

10:25 am July 1, 2010

Correct…If you remove the wire it can not send power to the reversing valve to energize it.

If you do it on the back of the control and your sure it's Marine Air…It will have two yellows connected on the t-stat and then tied together with a butt splice with one yellow heading out to the unit…The connectors on the back of the control are push on spades…Remove both.

Yes there is a calibration screw hole on the back of the t-stat, but I don't want you to mess with that yet…It could be fine & you will only get it out of calibration if the problem lies elsewhere…We have a few more tests to do before fooling with that…Removing the yellow is one that tells me what to ask next.

Steve~

Guest

tmh

11:36 am July 1, 2010

Thank You Steve. Your help is appreciated. If I need a part I'll buy it here, if you carry it.

Just to be clear, IF the reversing wire is disconnected (yellow from control) then the unit can only operate in cooling mode, right? So, "default" is cooling mode, hence if no cooling with yellow disconnected then I likely have an issue with the switch from cooling to heat? Interesting…

Don't waste your time answering if these assumptions are correct… I know you have a business to run.

A while back my "Off-Fan-Run" switch (top) had some issues and you explained some stuff to me – bottom line, I took it appart, soaked the metal parts in vinagar to remove corrosion, wire brushed them some then put it back together and it works. Yeah, it's a bear to put back together but I got it. Maybe a similar issue with the switch for the t-stat?

I'll remove the yellow and report back. Fun, fun, fun…..

Guest

tmh

4:14 pm July 3, 2010

OK, just back from the boat. I detached the yellow wires from the temp control knob back. The compressor then did not turn on no matter where I set the temp. Fan ran, but when set to "run" no compressor, nor the light on the control box lighting up to tell me the compressor was running. Reconnect the yellow wires, compressor fires up and it seems to get hot air. The cooling water (from the pump) section of the compressor was starting to ice a bit near where it comes in from the pump. It seemed less cold near where it exits the unit to overboard discharge, but still cold.

So, does this tell us anything? I had read about knocking the reversing valve to free it, but truth is, I have no idea what it looks like or where it is on the unit.

Thx.

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

7:48 am July 4, 2010

Removing the yellows should have not affected the compressor…

I'd rather you not smack the reversing valve…It's thin brass & if you dent the slide tube…It's done…

I think it's time you bite the bullett & buy a new or used control…It's just had too much tinkering done to it, and you may not figure it out until your season is over…(short where you are at)

If you are looking at used ones on EBay or the like…Be sure it's a Marine Air…Cruisair had the same parts, but the plug on the harness end is wired differently…

A new 3 knob Marine Air control retails for $440.00 & a Passport I/O digital retrofit kit is $645.00 and comes with everything needed including adaptor plate to fill the existing hole cutout…

Steve~

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

8:02 am July 4, 2010

Before you spend any money though…I'm still concerned about if the reversing valve is stuck…One more thing you can try…

Reconnect your yellow wires…Then go to the unit & find the reversing valve…It will have a Tube about the diameter of a quarter with 3 smaller tubes soldered into the top & one out the bottom….You will find a electromagnetic coil with two wires going into it attached…Either remove that coil…It's held on with a single nut, and once the nut is removed it will slide off a shaft…Once off, stick a screwdriver in the coil hole to absorb the heat it generates to keep it from melting….Then start the unit…If the unit cools then the valve is not stuck…If while running you can feel the magnetism on the screwdriver…Then there is a problem with the control….Replace the control & re-install the coil.

Steve~

Guest

tmh

7:35 pm July 14, 2010

Well, looks like Steve nailed my problem. GREAT step-by-step troubleshooting help! He got my cooling working but also isolated the thermostat as the problem with control. Steve, I sent a message asking for price and how to buy a replacement thermostat from you.

Thanks for the help.


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