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Marine Air CM16H

Post
Member

GeorgeH

posts 47

3:50 pm October 1, 2011

Steve,  

Back again after prior posts originating on 6/5/11 and 7/18/11 to this forum.  

Have 2, CM16 H units in Cambria 44 foot sailboat, original install in 1986.  One March AC-5C-MD pump [new 7/11] feeds both units.  One, 2PRP relay.  Both units have their own three knob cabin control units.  Each unit has own breaker, and water pump has its own breaker.  Location:  Massachusetts. Water temp:  about 70 degrees F.  

Both units had been cooling well since water pump replacement in July.  Now starting to use heat.  Forward unit works fine. Aft units works well, but trips its breaker after about ten minutes.  Water stays on — does not trip.  Good water flow forward and aft. Strainer clean.  Air filters clean.

Please advise!

Thanks in advance,  George

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

10:04 am October 2, 2011

Post edited 10:30 am – October 2, 2011 by Steve Pooler


Hi George~

 

From your description it seems likely that your salon system is shutting off on the high pressure switch that automatically resets itself…It does this at 325 psi, and that is a lot of pressure for the compressor to try to re-start against…Thus it draws high amperage trying to re-start & trips the breaker…It would do the same in the cool mode with loss of water flow.

 

Typical causes for A/C tripping breakers in the heat mode are:

  • Lack or loss of air flow…Clogged filter/Crimped or Restricted duct/Slow Fan speed…
  • Cabin air too warm…
  • Discharge duct leaking hot air back into unit's return (Warm air return as above)
  • Overcharge of refrigerant…

A/C & Refrigeration is all about moving & removing heat…If you can't effectively remove heat, that higher temp (because the heat is not removed) causes high pressure…Pressure & Temp correspond with refrigerants (Higher temps = Higher pressures)  

 

Know that in the "Reverse Cycle" heat mode:

  • You are now picking up heat from the seawater & moving it into the cabin, Thus are now using a fan to remove the heat from the refrigerant in the system…Air flow is very important to do that effectively…(Just as water flow is important in the cool mode)
  • At 70 degree seawater there is a lot of heat in that water to pick up…
  • Reduced air flow in the heat mode is the same as reduced water flow in cool…
  • Warmer cabin temps reduce the efficiency of the air coil at removing heat…
  • Hot air leaking back into that fan coil has the same effect…

I would first try running the fan on high speed to see if that helps…If so then we should look at duct sizes, but it's also important to know what cabin temp you are trying to maintain, and to be sure there is not a bad duct connection somewhere close to the air handler causing it to suck up it's own hot air…

 

Steve~

Member

GeorgeH

posts 47

12:46 pm October 2, 2011

Steve,   Very helpful as always.  I will check all duct connections.  Some of the aluminum fins on the air intake for the aft unit looked like they were distorted at some point in the past.  I only use that aft unit on the highest fan speed.  The reason for that is that the fan on the aft cabin unit has always seemed to run much slower than the fan on the forward unit.  I don't know if that was the way it was designed or if the slow fan speed is a symptom of some type of problem.  Except for the slow speed that fan sounds normal.  In the five years we have had the boat with these units the aft unit has always had this slower fan speed, but has performed well, until now. 

Many thanks, George

Member

GeorgeH

posts 47

12:53 pm October 4, 2011

Steve,

More info:  Ducting looks to be secure — all 5 inch diameter.  I removed the three knob control unit for the unit in question, and I see that some of the connectors on the back of the off/start/run knob, and also the warmer/cooler knob look burned. Wiring looks okay.  I have photos of this I can send, but could not figure out the upload procedure. Thanks again. George

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

2:00 pm October 4, 2011

GeorgeH said:

Steve,

More info:  Ducting looks to be secure — all 5 inch diameter.…Ok, But what BTU is that air handler ???…5" duct is only large enough for 8 or 9K…16K requires 7" duct…I removed the three knob control unit for the unit in question, and I see that some of the connectors on the back of the off/start/run knob, and also the warmer/cooler knob look burned...Yes, this is indication that you are drawing high amperage… Wiring looks okay.  I have photos of this I can send, but could not figure out the upload procedure. Thanks again. George

 

George~

As I described in my last post…Restricted air flow causes high pressure in heat…This high pressure causes the compressor to work harder pumping against that higher pressure & thus draw higher than normal amperage doing so…


Does this control/compressor operate more than one air handler ?…If so…Then that could explain your statement about the aft air handler not moving much air…It may be smaller than the other one connected to that system…If the system is 16K…The total BTU of both air handlers should equal 16K since you have a 16K compressor.


You could have a Larger AH fwd & Smaller aft…Like 12K fwd & 4K aft…Or 10K & 6K…


If this is true then the Fwd 10 or 12K unit should have 6" duct & 4" or 5" on the smaller aft unit…


It is very common for Boat builders to under size ductwork…The problem shows most in the heat mode, but can also cause icing in cooling…This icing might make a service guy overcharge the system in an attempt to keep the system from icing in cool mode….But that overcharge will only compound the problem in heat mode…

 

Air Flow is "ALL IMPORTANT" in Direct Expansion Air Conditioning…

 

Steve~

Member

GeorgeH

posts 47

4:14 pm October 4, 2011

Steve,

I realize I may not be explaining this clearly…  I have two, CM16H units — one forward and one aft.  The forward one works fine.  It is the aft unit I am asking about.  Both units are 16K I am told by two surveys that came with the boat.  But maybe they are not?  I cannot find anything on either unit that says 'CM16H'.  The top of the compressor on the aft unit says 'model# RRK4-0216-PAA'.  I called Marine Air with that info but they said that would not help them identify unit model.  The aft unit operates only one air handler.  Just to clarify — the low air flow from the aft unit seems to be a case of low fan RPM.  And if this helps… the silver box just inside of the fan speed control knob, on the three knob panel, has a hole in the top of it [about 1/8 inch diameter] which seems odd.  As you suggest, determining what model I have may be the most important thing here.  Any clues to that I could look for?

Thanks, George

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

5:21 pm October 4, 2011

Post edited 5:41 pm – October 4, 2011 by Steve Pooler


George~

I must admit that I have always been a Cruisair guy first…I worked for the distributor here for 10-11 years before the Cruisair Marine Air merger (started there in 87)…I did work on all brands, but didn't pay much attention to competitors model/part numbers…We always replaced with Cruisair parts/units as many were a copy/exact match with Cruisair parts.

 

I have been thinking your CM 16H units are split/remote systems (where the air handler is separate from the compressor)

 

If you are saying that they are All in One "Self Contained" units that's fine & I learned something….Laugh…But now that I think of it…Marine Air did call their Self Contained line "Cabin Mates"…With Cruisair it was (and still is) "Stowaways"

 

Your model CM-16H likely stands for Cabin Mate 16K with Heat…

 

Still…If they are 16,000 BTU self contained units….That makes the answer that much easier…5" duct IS your problem.

 

16K units Require 7"duct (at least Cruisair's did, and now Marine Air does the same)…Although back then we did see Marine Air 16K units installed with 6" duct (which was too small)

 

A Cruisair 12K unit of that vintage (with 6" duct) would perform as well as a Marine Air 16K would…In fact we used to replace bad Marine Air 16's with Cruisair 12's if the owner did not want to go to the expense of up-sizing/changing the duct & grills…We do the same today…Replace 16's with too small ductwork, with 12k units…Customers swear they have never had Better or Quieter performance…

 

Again…5" duct is only good up to 8000 BTU (maybe an older Marine Air 9K but they now make a 8K instead) the next unit up is 10K and even it requires 6" duct.

 

A way you can test/prove my statement/s is to completely disconnect the duct from the blower to see if the problem go's away (just make sure the warm/hot air does not reflect back to the units return)

 

The hole you describe in your fan speed control is for a small flat blade screwdriver to reach inside & adjust the low speed pot…You can set how low is low speed…High speed is non adjustable.

 

Steve~ 

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

5:28 pm October 4, 2011

One more thing George…If you can get me a LRA (Lock Rotor Amps) value off that Copeland compressor (same plate as the model) I can likely verify size…

 

Steve~

Member

GeorgeH

posts 47

9:02 am October 5, 2011

Thanks again Steve,

Yes, two Cabin Mate units.  The LRA # is 72.5 on the aft unit compressor.  Does that let you know the BTU rating?  I will disconnect ducting from blower and test, but is it okay to run that unit given the burned looking wire terminals I described before?  Also, shouldn't I see about solving the low fan speed on this unit?  [At present the fastest fan speed on the aft unit is even slower that the slowest fan speed on the fwd unit].  

George

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

9:46 am October 5, 2011

George~

 

That 72.5 LRA rating does indicate a 16K 115 volt compressor…I now know what model it is and that Copeland compressor though not very efficient…Was practically bulletproof…but as far as I know…It is out of production.

 

Your comment about high fan speed makes me wonder if someone has replaced the blower assembly on that unit with a smaller than original one in the past ???

Also…When you refer to speed…Are you comparing volume of air, or actual motor speed ???…Duct work & grill area can affect speeds & how it feels…  

Can you compare it to the Fwd unit to see if it looks different, or maybe physically smaller ???

Look for any signs of difference, like maybe it's not insulated…The original should have had a thin black spongy foam insulation glued to the housing…Sometimes folks will go to Grainger or the like to save money on a replacement, and get something they think is "Close Enough"…A blower from Grainger would not have insulation…Often times they are not the same CFM…

Both motors should have data stickers that give Amp draw & RPM specs…See if they match…

Another thing you can do is bypass the fan speed control to see if that one will run faster…It shouldn't…Usually when those speed controls fail, they fail wide open, and since yours does slow the motor it should be ok…You could also verify full voltage to the motor with a meter & the speed control set to wide open….The voltage out the control should be the same as the incoming…

As far as the connection on the back of the control…Yes since they have been overheated it's best to snip them off & crimp on new ones…Making sure the new fit tightly, and don't wiggle easily on the switch posts…If you don't have the tool for that then you can try pinching them (when removed from the switch) with a pair of pliers to tighten them up a bit..But most times the heat has weakened the metal in the connector & it won't stay tight after pushing them back on the switch posts…

Weak connections are a possible fire hazard…

Best to have the tools on a boat & don't get cheap ones…They are a waste of money & your time…

 

Steve~


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