Post edited 7:29 am – July 30, 2011 by Steve Pooler

biohazard said:

Hi steve I am back again.  I have a marine air vcp 10k

 

I noticed today my a/c unit stopped working again.  It would make a loud click noise, but no response from the compressor or pump.  I found the sound to come from the control box and a switch or relay of some sort below the control box with a couple wires coming off it.…From your description it seems you are describing the Reversing Valve…It's normal for it to click before a start…It does this to equalize system pressures so that the compressor does not try to start against high head pressure…This likely indicates that the control is asking for compressor…  

 

I tested power at my pump and realized I had no power.  I saw a similar post so I opened the control box, tested power there, had 120 coming in the L1 and L2 lines.  I tested the power in the control box when turning the unit on at the comp L1 and comp L2 lines, no power.  Same result for the pump L1 and L2 lines.  As far as I can tell the compressor and pump are never being given power.  The fan however does get power after about 15 seconds.…Fan after 15 seconds sounds about right…But the relays for the compressor & pump are not closing…You might try tapping on them with the plastic handle side of a screwdriver (little black boxes near the center of the board)…If this works you know your board is on it's way out…  

 

Of course it has to fail in 80% humidity at 1am.  Anything you can help me with to test what is going on with this unit now?  Is there a way to bypass that relay or whatever it is down there?

 

I show the VCP units as being from 1998 with Passport II controls…The board for that control is still available (keypad/display is not) but it is priced at $5 more than a complete retrofit to the present Passport I/O system that has many improvements over the Passport II…

 

With your past issue/s…You may also want to consider a complete new unit…The new Turbo units will outperform that unit in every way…http://www.dometic.com/enus/Am…..taid=84881

 

BTW…I just went back over your other thread…I was wrong about your ductwork size….I guess somehow I got to thinking you had a 16K and not a 10K…10K is ok with 6" duct…It's a 16K that needs the 7"…..

Sorry for the mixup  

 

Steve~

Post edited 11:34 am – July 30, 2011 by biohazard

Well here are a couple pics, I got the relay out.  Is it normal to always have a soldering iron onboard? :) I think I MAY have found one.  Is there any datasheets on the wiring so I can confirm the one I found is ok?

Here is what I found, looks identicle, power seems to be ok except that one is 28vdc and mine is 14vdc

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/w….._145753_-1

biohazard said:

Well here are a couple pics, I got the relay out.  Is it normal to always have a soldering iron onboard? :) I think I MAY have found one.  Is there any datasheets on the wiring so I can confirm the one I found is ok?

Here is what I found, looks identicle, power seems to be ok except that one is 28vdc and mine is 14vdc

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/w….._145753_-1

 

 

Sorry I can't be of much help there…Marine Air gives us no specs or info on individual board parts & the failure could also be from some other component down the line…Likely one of the reasons why they came out with a new model…

Steve~

That's a good point…I would connect the compressor, fan & pump wires together, then apply power…If it trips a breaker, then remove one component at a time & retest each time…

The reason I say to do it that way is if all run together you can also verify that the unit still cools ok…

I'll answer your mail now.

Steve~

biohazard said:

Do you mean just tie them all straight together form the main power coming in??  Thus bypassing the board all together?

Yes…All L1's with L1…And All L2's with L2 (which is actually neutral)

If it all runs you can turn it on & off with the breaker but you obviously won't have a thermostat control.

Steve~