I have done some extra digging around on the forum, I have noticed that I have ECU controls tied to Passport II control board if this possible. I am almost positive about this configuration. I also down loaded the pdf on compressor check. Wonder how the reverse an ac rotor to possibly unlock it? I hope I have given all info you need, Thanks, Bill 

Bullet Bill said:

I have done some extra digging around on the forum, I have noticed that I have ECU controls tied to Passport II control board if this possible. I am almost positive about this configuration. I also down loaded the pdf on compressor check. Wonder how the reverse an ac rotor to possibly unlock it? I hope I have given all info you need, Thanks, Bill 

Passport II did not come out until 1996…But your's could have been retrofitted…

No…The ECU board will not talk to a Passport II keypad/display…Reasons?

The ECU system had the microprocessor on the board…With Passport II it's in the Keypad/Display.

The ECU keypad/display did not have a temp sensor in the keypad as PP II does…Feel for it under the word Airrr…It's a small bump under the bottom ledge of the control…

Either way…If you end up going with a new Turbo unit…It only talks to the Passport I/O or Elite keypad/displays.

The Turbo 8K unit will outperform that 9K unit without the need to change duct/grill sizes… 

Steve~

Post edited 8:06 am – August 15, 2011 by Steve Pooler

Bullet Bill said:

Ok, I was not accurate in my description. I am almost sure from the pictures I looked at on tampa marine air web site,my digital control pad is an ECU and your correct in the fact that I am connected to a pump relay box. It has screw terminals on the output side of the board. When I get back to my boat in a couple of weeks I will check the cap and connections...Here is a training PDF to help you with checking the compressor & capacitors http://dometic.com/FileOrganiz…..ors%20.pdf …

Now my 9k unit has 2 duct openings. One in the v-berth I believe to be 3" round and a second rectangular vent in dining area. I haven't ever checked the size, but if I were guessing, I would say fed by a 4" duct. I will know for sure on next trip...When I was speaking of 5" & 6" duct I was talking about from the blower to the splitter, but still a 4" & a 3" won't be enough for a 10 or 12 K unit…

You said the turbo 8 will out perform the 9. Why? is it the increased volume of air or efficency of the newer freon?…Yes, Both…The new unit uses R-410A refrigerant & has a High Velocity Blower yet it's quieter overall…

What temp. air should I see from the vent?…With A/C, the temp you should see from the discharge grill/s should be 15 to 18 degrees lower than what is entering the evaporator coil…Meaning if you have a 90 degree cabin…Don''t expect much lower than 75 degree discharge…But as the cabin temp lowers, that temp differential (TD) is maintained, and the discharge air temp will lower with the cabin temp…80 degree cabin…Expect around 65 degree discharge etc…

If the TD is higher than 18 degrees it indicates a air flow problem, or lack of…Meaning the unit is not picking up enough heat, and performance will suffer because it is not removing the designed amount (BTU) of heat…The system will then ice up at lower cabin temps since there is not as much heat there at those lower temps… 

If I have to go with a new unit we will talk over the phone if possible. I assume you are in Tampa. Thanks for your quick response. BILL

Yes I''m in Tampa Bay Bill…Actually St Pete…Call most anytime, the number I have listed in the Contact Steve link is my cell, but mornings are better because I'm usually behind this computer doing this typing thing   and have the info in front of me…

Here is a link to the new Marine Air "Turbo" units & their specs: http://www.dometic.com/enus/Am…..products/?productdataid=84881

Retail pricing is on page one of the Marine Airrrr pricing link at the top of any page on this site…I can quote discounts over the phone or by e-mail.

Steve~

Bill~

Looks like your 16K unit is starving for seawater flow, or needs an acid flush, but you may want to call me (i'm in the office this morn) because I see possible other issues/fixes from your latest info…

Steve~

727-356-6123

Post edited 6:05 am – September 2, 2011 by Steve Pooler

Bullet Bill said:

Well Steve, I went to my boat this past Tuesday,did a flush with fresh water using marina water pressure. This flushed out a good wad of krud out of each unit. Continued flush for about 20 min per unit, had good clean flow. Set up acid bucket and pump. Acid flushed each unit for several hrs. each. Reflushed with high pressure water, then reconnected to pump. We established good flow on both units, then turned on 9k unit first. Amp load supposed to be 8.4 fla–was 10 before flush, now 9.1amps. Turned off 9k unit brought 16k unit on line –suppose to be 12 fla–still pulling 19 amps.–I'm stumped. do I need to call? 

 

You can call if you like Bill…But it seems you have done all that you can do to lower the amperage with the acid flush…

 

I think when we spoke on the phone previously…I mentioned that it is not uncommon (In fact normal) for A/C units to draw more than rated amperage in hotter than rated conditions…So Yes…You are at the limit of one 30 amp shore cord in your 90+ degree water & 100+ degree climate….

 

This amperage draw will lower some as the boat cools…Less heat load equals lower operating pressures, and thus lower amperage draw…The problem is that you have to get the boat cool, and to do that you are drawing more power than that 30 amp shore line can handle…

 

You have some options as I see it:

• Move one unit over to the other shore cord (maybe swap places/breakers with the water heater, or batt charger)
• Replace that 3 amp draw Cal pump with a March AC-5C-MD 1000 GPH pump that draws 2.2 amps and moves more water (which will also help lower head pressure & thus amperage) 
• Replace one/both unit/s with more efficient unit/s (I'd start with the 16K) then sell that unit to recoup some costs since it is fully operational…Used 16K units are in big demand & not hard to sell depending on condition.

I think I mentioned on the phone that I would do the pump change out anyway…Those Cal pumps are not what they are cracked up to be…They overheat if not submerged, and are subject to quit at any time…Plus I personally don't believe their GPH claims…

 

To test this theory you might hook up shore water directly to your salon unit to see if the amperage lowers somewhat, but remember that shore water will also be cooler than what you are pumping out of the bayou…   

Steve~