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A/C not as cold

Post
Member

biohazard

posts 17

7:55 pm July 13, 2011

Hello,

 

I have been having issues recently with my Marine Air PVC10K unit.  It seems to not be blowing air as cold as it used to and takes a very long time to cool the cabin only a few degrees.  I checked the unit today to see if I saw anything wrong, I noticed the compressor seems to be hot to the touch and the lines with the blue "suction" cap seems to be iced up.  I have seen this before when my water pump locked up and overheated the unit a few times.  

 

Water is flowing out of the unit fine, the screen is also cleaned, airflow is good just not all that cold.  I am not sure what is wrong here but something doesnt seem right.   What exactly is going on with my a/c unit?Confused

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

8:31 am July 14, 2011

Hi Ryan~

Did you mean "VCP"10K ?…I'm not familiar with "PVC" models…

If you have good airflow (low airflow causes icing) then it seems you may have lost refrigerant…But where did it go ?

These units are all solder connections, and are not supposed to leak like you might expect of auto A/C with rubber hoses & compressor shaft seals…

Rotary compressors (such as in the self contained units) do normally run hot…But do need refrigerant return to keep from burning up…

Short of testing with gauges to read pressures the only test you could do is with a thermometer…Read temp at the return air grill…Then read it at the closest discharge grill…We are looking for 15 to 18 degrees difference (TD)

If less than 15 degrees I'd say get the unit serviced (and checked for leaks) don't run it low on freon as it will burn itself up…

If it's more than 18 degrees…Look for air restriction…Both return & discharge…

 

Steve~

Member

biohazard

posts 17

8:58 am July 14, 2011

Steve,

Thanks for the reply, you are probably right about the model name. I am heading down to the boat after work and I will check with a temp gun.  I find it odd it would leak coolant, the lines are even covered in some kinda white paint and all look good.  It is a 12 year old unit though…  I am also bringing an air compressor down tonight to blast out any dust buildup inside the unit.

 

What is an acceptable temp for the compressor to run at?  Do you know what type of refrigerant this a/c unit uses?

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

10:12 am July 14, 2011

Post edited 11:03 am – July 14, 2011 by Steve Pooler


Don't think I have ever shot a rotary with a temp gun…Just know that the outside can/shell is in contact with the hot discharge gas with rotary compressors (it's part of the design) So it can also change related to head pressure…

All Marine Air units till 2010 used R-22…

Also remember that infrared temp guns only sense surface temp…Not air temp…So the surface would have to be the same temp as the air passing across it, and there could be some delay in it getting there, also differing thickness/materials change temps at differing rates…

 

Steve~

Member

biohazard

posts 17

10:52 am July 14, 2011

good point steve, I will bring a coulpe thermometers with me. 

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

10:58 am July 14, 2011

One thermometer is better, as I can never find two that read the same…

Put em side by side where ever & they always seem a couple degrees different…

This could make you think you have a 15 degree TD when in fact it's like 13….Or vise verse 

 

Steve~

Member

biohazard

posts 17

2:42 pm July 14, 2011

Sounds good steve, I will stick with 1.  I will post my results when I return home tonight.

Member

biohazard

posts 17

11:24 pm July 14, 2011

Post edited 11:33 pm – July 14, 2011 by biohazard


I ran some tests on the boat.  We ended up pulling the a/c unit out and cleaning it all out.  There were a few mashed fins, I straighented them best I could.  I seem to have goten a bit more air flow now but not much.  

 

The temp after this on the grill inlet was around 72-74.  Temp on the nearest outlet was 50-52.  Water temp is around 78-82 degrees.  Ambient temp was around 75, with 70% humidity.  

 

The suction line was still getting cold, the other line was getting hot.  The suction line was building condensation also, but it did not freeze.  The air fins felt cool and had good air flow in front of them.  

 

Tomorrow it will be 90 degrees and I will be able to give the unit a little better test.

 

Here is a picture of my bent fins

 

http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp133/bionetworks/Boat%20Upgrades%20and%20Repairs/3055%20Lowrance%20and%20LED%20Upgrade/IMG_20110714_195145.jpg

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

7:31 am July 15, 2011

Post edited 8:05 am – July 15, 2011 by Steve Pooler


A 22 degree TD (temp differential) means you are not picking up enough heat…Thus not removing the design's BTU rating, which causes the poor performance you noted…Then the unit will ice when it does get the cabin down to lower temps…Two things to check…

  • Make sure you don't have a discharge duct leak causing the unit to suck back it's own cold air.
  • Remove the duct at the unit (install a short piece to direct air away from unit) and re-test TD.

Reason for the short piece of duct is to insure that the first thing does not happen, but that test can tell us if you may have a collapsed discharge duct somewhere after the unit, or that they installed duct too small for system size/BTU…

BTW…What size duct is installed ?…If more than one size I need to know each…

I know it's been working for 12 years but that still doesn't mean it was right from the get go…We see this often…

Once we have eliminated leaking, collapsed, or undersized duct, we can look at the unit for problems…Don't worry about those coil fins…They don't look that bad…

 

Steve~ 

Member

biohazard

posts 17

10:13 am July 15, 2011

Hey Steve,

The duct work has multiple sized and junction boxes.  I will take measurements and get some pictures tonight.  I will also remove the unit from the ducting and re-direct it.  I will post results and pics when I get home.


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