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1980 Cruisar compressor cuts out, then back on

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Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

11:09 am May 8, 2011

Post edited 6:37 am – May 9, 2011 by Steve Pooler


Mike~

The GE relay you describe is the Start Relay that only brings the Start Capacitor into the circuit when the compressor is called for by the thermostat…and It only energizes that Start Cap for a short time.

Yes one side of the reversing valve solenoid coil may connect to that start relay for Line 2 (the bottom left connection that has the most wires to it) That connection terminal post has no internal connection to anything inside the relay…It is only used as a junction terminal.

Your FX-1 digital control makes or breaks the other Line (Line 1) for the reversing valve…so the FX-1 is seeing something to make it send power to the reversing valve…Though it may do this normally when it's thermostat is satisfied (cabin is to temp) to instantly equalize pressures in the system & make ready for the next compressor start…I'm just not that familiar with the FX-1 (as I don't see many) to say exactly how it handles the reversing valve before or during startup.

I will say that the Cruisair controls will energize the reversing valve just prior to compressor start for about a second if the last shutdown was less than 2 minutes ago…If longer than 2 min since last shutdown it will not energize as the system would have had sufficient time to equalize back thru the capillary tubes in the air handler & the reversing valve trick is not needed.

Cruisair, on older SMX controls used to energize the valve for every start but got some complaints about the "Click" noise it makes waking folks that had self contained units under the berth they were sleeping in/on…So they changed the firmware a bit to what I described above.

Little things like this are what make the Cruisair/Marine Air controls a step above the FX-1…But they are also more expensive.

 

Steve~

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

11:29 am May 8, 2011

Mike~

For $33.94 + freight…You could have a dedicated R-22 refrigerant gauge manifold set, just for the boat.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V…..B000VAQQ3Y

I would consider buying one now because as time go's on there will be less of the R-22 sets available & the price will surely go up…The new sets are calibrated more for the higher operating pressures of R-410a…And though they will read R-22 pressures they will not be as accurate for that purpose.

 

Steve~

Member

MexicoMike

posts 21

8:31 am May 9, 2011

Thanks Steve – I'll order that gauge set.

 

Re the 5-2-1 after reading your response I did some more research – interesting that essentially all the 521 does is what ALL OLD ac units did as delivered – contain a relay/start capacitor.  I'm often surprised how frequently "new," "modern" components of all types are actually "downgrades" from what used to be made and you need to "upgrade" them to be equal to the older stuff.

 

Ran across a refrigerator from the 1930's that is still running just fine and, according to the owner, has never been serviced.  Our boat needed two new refrigerators (one by the PO) in 9 years. ;)

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

8:51 am May 9, 2011

Post edited 8:59 am – May 9, 2011 by Steve Pooler


MexicoMike said:

Thanks Steve – I'll order that gauge set.

 

Re the 5-2-1 after reading your response I did some more research – interesting that essentially all the 521 does is what ALL OLD ac units did as delivered – contain a relay/start capacitor.  I'm often surprised how frequently "new," "modern" components of all types are actually "downgrades" from what used to be made and you need to "upgrade" them to be equal to the older stuff.

 

Ran across a refrigerator from the 1930's that is still running just fine and, according to the owner, has never been serviced.  Our boat needed two new refrigerators (one by the PO) in 9 years. ;)

Not all "old" units had start components…But the better ones did…It was a cost thing that cut down on profit margin I guess…Home A/C units have been without them for many years, but home power is usually much more stable than boat power.

Home type refrigerators have an especially hard time on boats…Many are enclosed in a box that won't allow them to breath properly, plus many boats are closed up a good share of the time adding to that heat problem.

But the worst killer of home refrigerators in boats is the frequent power losses (like shifting from shore to gen)

Home refrigerators don't have time delay relays that make the compressor wait several minutes before a restart after power interruption….They then try to start against that head pressure I described earlier…It's even tougher on the smaller compressors in refrigerators as they don't have much horsepower. 

 

Steve~

Member

MexicoMike

posts 21

2:25 pm June 12, 2011

Steve – turned out to be two related electrical issues

 

One of the bayonet connections at the compressor was badly corroded and was arcing/making partial contact sometimes.  I cleaned the compressor terminal, cut back the wires to good, clean tinned copper, and installed new connectors.  This resolved the cutting out.  I also put in a new start cap and now the startup surge has dropped from a panel needle indication of 60+ amps to a bit less than 40 A.  

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

2:44 pm June 12, 2011

That's Great Mike !!!…Glad you found it~  Cool

Had that connection been left alone to arc…It would have burned away the flag terminal to the point you could no longer get a connector to mate with it…And you may have been buying a compressor…

I have however, gotten by when that happens, by using a short piece of copper tubing "driven" onto the bad compressor post and then crimp the open end around a fresh section of that wire…Sometimes it lasts…Sometimes not…

If the start cap was bad…That usually means the start relay is hanging up causing the capacitor to be in the circuit too long (it may not happen every time) so I would consider replacing the start relay too before it causes you new capacitor to fail…

 

Thanks for the report…Stay Cool…

 

Steve~


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