Post edited 8:54 am – September 23, 2011 by Steve Pooler

Dan~

When I spoke of paint discoloring I was speaking of on the compressor…I have not seen a water coil discolor…Likely because the high pressure switch would cut it off before it ran hot long enough to discolor the paint there…

As far as 90 degrees seawater…Don't feel alone…It's what I see in just about every Marina basin here on the West Coast of Fl…August & September it go's up a couple more degrees…That's why it's so important to keep up with scale & flow…Cooler months are not so much a problem but every year we get the same issues/complaints starting about now…

As to "How Hot is Too Hot" on the coils…I don't test for that other than with my hand…I use the gauges for pressure readings to tell me how hot is too hot…I'd say anything above 275-300 psi is too hot with 90 degree seawater (switch cuts off at 425 psi) and if a coil is clean with sufficient water flow, the cabin is say 85 degrees (you have broken the heat load some) I wouldn't expect it to be no higher than around 250-265 psi

One way to tell by feel…If the bottom run of the water coil is hot…It's time for service…It should be much cooler than the top run indicating it has removed most of the heat….I should also say for info that the refrigerant flows the opposite direction as the water does…Meaning where the water exits (always should be the top coil) the refrigerant enters (and is at it's hottest point)….This is in the cool mode, and it's the other way around in heat (water still runs the same direction but refrigerant is reversed)

I have no experience with Rydlyme…But I'm sure it will work, How long it takes I can''t say…Just be sure to stop the flushing process, remove a hose, and shine a flashlight into the coil to see if it is like new…If not, reconnect & flush longer.

You can also get some cheap 5/8" heater hose and cut pieces to daisy chain all the units (or several at a time) to avoid doing them one by one…Just connect your pump hose (the one from the bucket) to the first unit…Then using the heater hose, jump to the next unit, and so on…The last unit's outlet will then return to the bucket (likely the best one to remove the hose for inspection with a light)

Also: If the units are in a rack on top of each other…Start at the lowest units, then jump to the upper units, with the last upper unit returning to the bucket….This way your acid will return/drain back to the bucket and you shouldn''t have much left in the coils when removing the jumper hoses…

One last word…Be sure when reconnecting the original hoses that you keep the flow direction thru the units as it should be…The inlet on each unit is always the lower of the two…It does matter which way it flows thru the coil…

Steve~

That's all Great news !!!  

Please let us know how it helped…

Amperage draw would be a nice comparison  

Steve~