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Air Handlers: 18k btu w/600cfm or 24k btu w/480cfm?

Post
Member

ThirdHatt

Madisonville, LA

posts 18

8:20 am January 9, 2012

Post edited 8:24 am – January 9, 2012 by ThirdHatt


I will try to get those temps for you ASAP. I did install the soft-starts back in 2010 and they do help alot. Whenever I have both compressors on they both run staged just behind one another by maybe a second or two time wise. They cycle fairly quickly as well, usually running for only a minute or two then shutting off only to come back on a minute or two later. This pattern may suggest that they may not have enough (or any?) temp separation programmed in like you stated.

Another point worth noting, I do not have an automatic chiller control board like newer systems have or even an older control setup like the one for sale in the classifieds section of your website. I have a simple manual control board with a breaker to turn the raw water pump on/off, a breaker to turn the chilled water pump on/off, a breaker for each chiller and a switch to select cool or heat for each chiller. Every time I consider if I would ever want to upgrade to an automatic control board I remember how easy it is to blow breakers on the dock when running both chillers at some marinas and also the significant extra cost of the electric bill when running on both chillers. That combined with the fact that one chiller really does cool (or heat) the boat very well, I just run #1 for about a week, then I run #2 for about a week and so on to keep the running time fairly even between the two. With that being said, for some reason the #2 chiller is not cycling on in heat mode this winter, so on the rare occasions when I use heat I am only using chiller #1.

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

9:13 am January 9, 2012

When you say Soft Starts…Do you mean these ?

 http://marine-ac.com/marketpla…..y-dometic/

Or what exactly did you install if not ?

I must confess that before the Dometic merger of Cruisair/Marine Air I was always a Cruisair guy first, so I may not be up on when Marine Air made the change to digital boards inside the chillers themselves…But I'm thinking by 98 they were digital no ?

Again each board with the display would be inside the electrical box on top of each chiller…You can't see them without opening the box…

Typically we set the chillers to cycle a degree or two apart & they have a 2 degree differential from off to back on…

So as long as one chiller has the capacity to keep up with the heat load…The second chiller will never come on…

But during the heat of the day (when you may be experiencing your issue) that one chiller may not have the capacity to keep the loop cool enough to do the job in the hotter areas of the vessel (salon) especially when doors are being opened etc…

With a warmer loop…Cabin temp maintenance & recovery can suffer since you are not getting the temp diff out of the air coil…If only one coil has poor TD…Then that coil may just need bleeding of air out…

 

Steve~

Member

ThirdHatt

Madisonville, LA

posts 18

10:39 am January 9, 2012

Yep, I have the factory Dometic soft starts that your link pictures. My chillers were replaced in 2008, confirmed with Marine Air that they were built in 2007. When we installed the soft starts I did see the little red digital display inside the control box so I know where to look for the temp readings. I'll have to find some time to open them up hopefully this week so that I can report back to you what the temps are.

 

I see your point about the one chiller possibly not keeping the loop cold enough. That sounds quite possible although the air temps are fairly consistant in the 50's even on the weak air handler. It seems to be getting cold enough (as cold as the other air handlers) but it is simply not moving enough air to be effective on that side of the salon, that's all. No matter how low the air temps get, if it is just trickling out of the vents on that side of the room it is just not going to get the job done very effectively.

 

With respect to the second chiller being set up to run only when the first chiller cannot maintain the temp in the loop, out of curiosity how would that address the difference in run time of the two units, or does it? Seems like th eprimary chiller would have a very high run time compared to the second chiller.

 

Thanks!

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

11:23 am January 9, 2012

Post edited 11:27 am – January 9, 2012 by Steve Pooler


Yes one does get considerably more run time…But it's pretty simple to go back in & swap the settings on each chiller every so often to even out run time…I actually set them up so that they are opposite in heat vs cool…I make one the primary for heat & the other primary for cool…Of course here in Fl that still does not begin to even it out…

You could set it as an item in your monthly, bi-monthly, etc..maintenance log to change…

So you do have the DDC boards…Now the question will be if you have the old or newer models…

When looking at the display right side up…See if there are a couple of small push buttons just to the left of the display…That's a newer board…

Older boards had small pots that you adjusted with a small slotted screwdriver…Underneath the pot on the board it will be labeled CSP for cooling setpoint & HSP for heat…If you have these you won't be able to read the setpoint without turning the pot…

Don't make any changes until you get back with me…It can be easy to get lost & mess things up a bit…

However I do still need to know the readings as it rotates from inlet to outlet…Remember the compressor needs to be running…

And I'd still love to sell you an air handler  Laugh

 

Steve~

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

11:35 am January 9, 2012

Post edited 1:18 pm – January 9, 2012 by Steve Pooler


Oh…Just so you know…"Soft Starts" are a whole different animal than the "SmartStart" I linked…Two completely different technologies…

I'm also thinking that you may be tripping breakers with two chillers on-line because they are set at the same temp & may try to start at the same time or within a few seconds of each other…

With the DDC board we can adjust the Time Delay to help that too…

 

Steve~

Member

ThirdHatt

Madisonville, LA

posts 18

12:53 pm January 9, 2012

All that makes complete sense to me. You are correct, I was incorrectly using the term, "soft start". What I have is most certainly the Dometic "Smart Start" units. The compressors sure to come online much "softer" though! I noted that they would spike up close to 80amps before, now they spike up to about 35amps before settling down in the teens. What a difference! The interior lights barely dim now when they used to dim alot before the smart starts. There used to be such a voltage draw that the battery UPS backup for my nav computer would start to beep thinking we lost shorepower!

 

I'll take a look at those boards and get back to you…..

Member

ThirdHatt

Madisonville, LA

posts 18

7:43 am January 10, 2012

I took a quick look at one of the control boards and sure enough I do have the new style board with two small buttons just to the left of the display. I did not have time to fire up both compressors and let the loop come to temp so that I could check the inlet and output temps but I will do that ASAP and report back.

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

11:17 am January 10, 2012

That's good news~

 

It shouldn't take long to pull the loop down if you first shut off all the air handlers…No heat load that way…

Since you have the buttons…The upper one will allow you to scan thru the settings with each push (the lower allows change of each when shown on the display)

Don't change anything yet, but get me the CSP settings in each chiller…I don't want to tell you how low you can set them until I know the TD of the loop…The difference of in & out is important to the CSP setting…I'll explain after…But it has to do with freeze up protection & shut downs…

 

Steve~

Member

ThirdHatt

Madisonville, LA

posts 18

7:16 pm January 10, 2012

Post edited 7:17 pm – January 10, 2012 by ThirdHatt


Well Steve, I opened the control boxes and made sure to power them on at the exact same time so that the displays would cycle from rtr to sup at the same time. #1 seems normal as it cuts in at 50 and cuts out at 42. Here's what threw me: #2 cuts in at 48 and the sup always shows 150! I must have a bad sup temp sensor on #2 I guess? When I run them both, they both cut in and cut out at nearly the exact same time, just as you suspected and as you suggested, that is probably why at come marinas I can blow the dock breaker. This may also explain why #2 will not kick on in heat mode at all. Something is up with #2 without a doubt. Heck, you may even suggest a minor adjustment in #1, but I must say that #1 has always been EXCELLENT at cooling OR heating the boat so I suspect that it is set right or pretty close to right. #2 has done the job mostly, but not nearly as efficient like in mid-summer at mid-day.

I can almost see the wheels turning in your mind! What are your thoughts with this new info?

 

As always, thank you!

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

7:36 pm January 10, 2012

Wheels are turning Byron…But You are not telling me what I ask….

It's most important that I know the inlet & outlet temp of both chillers…At this point Nothing else matters !

 

Steve~


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