To save a bunch of typing you may want to read this post http://marine-ac.com/forum/ins.....gulations/ 

Cruisair & Marine Air both have condensing units to replace your Luneair. 

Where are you located ?

Steve~

Eric

1) That would depend on what you are replacing & where it's located…Cruisair has discontinued the "F" series units that were most common…The base of those units was 13 wide x 18 deep…The "R" series is 13 x13, so if this unit is in a rack it may not fit correctly, and you may need to modify the rack to support it…

2)  The condensing unit & air handler must match !!!…You cannot connect a RX12 to a 16,000 air handler and have the system work properly…Take my word for it…It just won't work….and it will void any warranty on the new unit.

If you want to downsize (which I would not recommend on that size boat/salon) You will need to change out the air handler to a 12,000 ...]]> Sun, 05 Sep 2010 09:37:43 -0500 http://marine-ac.com/forum/installation/replacing-a-condensing-unit/#p883 Installation http://marine-ac.com/forum/installation/replacing-a-condensing-unit/#p883 Two questions:

1) How hard is it to replace a condensing unit - Cruisair RX 16C? I realize I'll need a tech to charge/test the system but could save a few $ by doing most of the work myself. I'm a mechanical engineer and reasonably handy.

2) I can get the RX 16C for about $2000. I may also have access to a RX 12C for a fraction of that cost. I realize the RX 12C capacity is only 75% of the RX 16C but wonder if I can get by with it since the cost differential is significant. The boat is in northern waters (New England, Great Lakes, etc) during the summer and FL in the winter. Do you have ...]]> Sun, 05 Sep 2010 07:56:53 -0500 http://marine-ac.com/forum/installation/new-pump-relay-box/page-2/#p721 Installation http://marine-ac.com/forum/installation/new-pump-relay-box/page-2/#p721 Thanks Steve:

Funny you mentioned the hours, have already spent the time.

I'll follow your advice again and have the sniffer look for the leaks. Is there any kind of consumer brand sniffer available?

REALLY appreciate all your help. We have been kept very cool.

Jim Hughes

That depends...It can be a process...

Sometimes you may not show a bubble on one joint when cooling...But it may show on that same joint when heating...

It's all about what tube/joint is under higher pressure when in either cooling or heating...High side...Low side, and that changes by "Reverse Cycle"....And yes...heating that joint can make it show too...

You can spend Many hours (and a lot of 409) trying to find a leak with just bubbles....It's best to get someone with a sniffer to at least get you into the general area...Even then you may not be able to see a bubble if it's on the back side of a joint you can't see....

Leak detection is no less than a tedious process, and sometimes called an art...

Steve~ 

What is the method of testing with the 409? Do you run AC units first, warming them up then use the 409 test looking for bubbles. Or can you do it with AC units turned off?

Jim Hughes

If a black joint is oily...It's likely leaking...

I use Fantastic, or 409 to pinpoint a leak before re-soldering...Look for little bitty white bubbles...

Steve~ 

Now Steve, is there a do it your-selfer chamethod to check for leaks. My girlfriend just said take a bottle of water and dishwasher liguid and spray on hoses and fittings and see if there's bubbles.

whatcha think?

Jim Hughes enjoying very cool AC for now!